Plants run THHN wire in flexible and solid conduit all day and night. It's SAFER than ROMEX run bare inside your walls! Yes, flexible conduit is UGLY in your house, but the NEC, which the fire marshal follows, allows this circuit.
People confuse flex life with flexibility. They are not the same. SOLID THHN wire in flexible conduit will last just fine based on the conduit's self limiting min bend radius. Of course, SOLID WALL conduit has to be FIXED service because it will kink when it is bent and pinch the wires.
Some circuits REQUIRE SOLID wire so it is either "good" or "bad" (fire alarm wire). When solid wire is "bad" it's an open or very high resistant "touch" circuit that can be tested for. Stranded wire can lose strands over it's life and burn off when full rated current is drawn after the wire ages and strands break. Stranded wire is responsible for the majority of fires for this reason.
I just bought a used PASS LABS XP-10 pre amp, and it does have a "stand-bye" mode, which powers off a good part of the circuit. But, a 10 watt draw is pretty light. Circuits that draw VERY small levels of power would be designed accordingly, and to the typical junction temps of those circuits. There is no magic in circuit temperature stability.
I'm not talking about circuit life, but "sound quality" after thermal equilibrium. Shoot, most of you change stuff before a layer of dust gets on it! I buy half my stuff used and have no fear at all with SS equipment. My Apt 1 amp is 30 YEARS OLD and still fine driving 1979 B&W 801's! The APT 1 amp has no power switch, you plug it into the wall. No, it isn't for 24/7 "sounds better" it's because a SWITCH is GARBAGE and over rides every piece of wire in the power circuit, so he took it out.
I'm still amazed at how little the IEC plugs, wall outlet plugs and power switches are really looked into. They are the predominat part of the circuit. But, we may silly money for "wire" and ignore the critical plugs and switches.
People confuse flex life with flexibility. They are not the same. SOLID THHN wire in flexible conduit will last just fine based on the conduit's self limiting min bend radius. Of course, SOLID WALL conduit has to be FIXED service because it will kink when it is bent and pinch the wires.
Some circuits REQUIRE SOLID wire so it is either "good" or "bad" (fire alarm wire). When solid wire is "bad" it's an open or very high resistant "touch" circuit that can be tested for. Stranded wire can lose strands over it's life and burn off when full rated current is drawn after the wire ages and strands break. Stranded wire is responsible for the majority of fires for this reason.
I just bought a used PASS LABS XP-10 pre amp, and it does have a "stand-bye" mode, which powers off a good part of the circuit. But, a 10 watt draw is pretty light. Circuits that draw VERY small levels of power would be designed accordingly, and to the typical junction temps of those circuits. There is no magic in circuit temperature stability.
I'm not talking about circuit life, but "sound quality" after thermal equilibrium. Shoot, most of you change stuff before a layer of dust gets on it! I buy half my stuff used and have no fear at all with SS equipment. My Apt 1 amp is 30 YEARS OLD and still fine driving 1979 B&W 801's! The APT 1 amp has no power switch, you plug it into the wall. No, it isn't for 24/7 "sounds better" it's because a SWITCH is GARBAGE and over rides every piece of wire in the power circuit, so he took it out.
I'm still amazed at how little the IEC plugs, wall outlet plugs and power switches are really looked into. They are the predominat part of the circuit. But, we may silly money for "wire" and ignore the critical plugs and switches.