Woodsong Garrard 301, Artisan Fidelity 301, Shindo 301, SME 301, or etc.?

Chris Harban advised me not to switch to a much heavier platter.
That the 301 motor was not designed to move that much weight.
Although it does seem like a heavier platter would add thrust and a stronger tone. And the available heavy copper or brass platters are $1-2K. Does anyone have experience changing from a lighter to heavier platter?

A huge upgrade to my TT rig was putting it on a SRA VR platform. As always, never imagined there could be better SQ but I just changed from the entry level VR to the mid line Ohio Class.
Wow, what a difference! Why Ohio Class? Because SRA makes vibration control for nuclear submarines. Much more $ than a heavy platter but waaay worth it.

Chris Harban advised me not to switch to a much heavier platter.
That the 301 motor was not designed to move that much weight.

@mglik

Yes I agree with Chris on this. The 301 motor is not as powerful as the later 401 and in my experience the timing and coherence of the bass deteriorates with heavier platters on the 301.

On my 301 after trying heavier platters & bearings I stuck with the original platter.

The original 301 platter is slightly concave and you cant use metal or rigid mats on a concave surface. So i had the top surface of my original 301 platter very carefully precision machined flat and rebalanced. You have to be very careful and need a precision engineer, else you can lose too much meat off the platter and it becomes more resonant.

In terms of mats I have the following in my collection -
Final Audio 4.8kg copper
Micro Seiki 1.8kg copper
Goldmund methaclyate
Sumiko Compositions barium lead/methacrelate
SAEC SS300
Seisin Engineering ADS3005sp mk2.

I also have a collection of weights & clamps from Final Audio, Goldmund, Audiocraft and others.

With the original 301 platter machined flat, I prefer the SAEC & Seisin mats with no clamp or weight. both mats are not heavy and improve the sound without upsetting the balance.

You might want to talk to Chris about how to get a level surface platter - it might be better to buy an aftermarket platter from CTC to get a platter with a level surface - and then machine it down if necessary to match the original plattters weight.

@dover My 401 sits in a 6-layer ply Macassar Ebony gloss plinth. The platter is a machined finish version from Peak Hifi and I use an Audio Silente idler wheel. I’m very satisfied with the performance I’m getting and the 6 layer plinth is the perfect thickness to damp vibrations without deadening the sound. I don’t feel the need to tweak it any further at the moment which is good for me. I’m using a similar plinth for the 301.
Earlier this year, I got your opinion on the Morch DP-8 tonearm and ended up not getting the Morch after hearing your experiences. I ended up going in a whole different direction.

@scar972 
Very nice system you have - its great to get to a happy place. When I had a shop I met a lot of audiophiles who were never happy - always looking for something different. To me the Garrards embody that goal of forget about the gear and enjoy the music. They are a bargain really - the only requirement is that they are well sorted and there are plenty of options and spares to go. 

Chris Harban advised me not to switch to a much heavier platter.
That the 301 motor was not designed to move that much weight.

Yes I agree with Chris on this. The 301 motor is not as powerful as the later 401 and in my experience the timing and coherence of the bass deteriorates with heavier platters on the 301.

Of course the 301 motor was not designed for a heavy platter. That is inarguable. But what does that mean? Is Chris Harban stating that the motor will be damaged by being asked to turn a 25 lb solid brass platter? The Shindo 301 solid brass platter has been used for many years by many 301 fans with no reported failures though it does require a heavy duty after market bearing, preferably solid brass as well. Manually spinning the platter at the same time one engages the power lever helps alleviate start-up stress on the motor.
Again, I agree that the sound changes depending upon which platter one chooses. The descriptors for those changes in sound are subject to debate. I agree that common sense dictates that the OEM platter is the "easiest" for the motor to spin. There is not a motor known to mankind that won't eventually need servicing. 
It seems several people above are implying their particular implementation (plinth, platter, accessories such as bearings and idler wheels, tonearm, mat) are the best. News flash; there is no best and there is no optimum. It is all like making a pot of chili in a chili cook off. All subject to the variations in taste among the judges.