Help! Tweaking My Lovan Rack for new Big A**ed Transrotor Turntable!


Folks, some input would be mighty appreciated.

I’ve been using a hand-me-down (though very nice!) Micro Seiki dd-40 turntable for a number of years and finally got the upgrade itch (it helps the upgrade itch when your cartridge is going on 30 years old, and sounding like it!).

I went down the rabbit hole and picked up a Transrotor Fat Bob S turntable, with an Acoustic Solid 12" arm and a Benz Micro Ebony cartridge. All with only about 30 hours of use at a great price. Yay!

Though I have considered getting rid of my old Lovan Classic rack for a new custom jobby, I’m pretty much spent out and I think I’ll have to make do for now, working with the Lovan.

The Fat Bob turntable is 55 lbs of solid aluminum and built like Thor’s hammer.

I figure this will finally get me to fill my Lovan stands for a bit more rigidity - probably with rice. The stand is the old 3 legged triangular shaped bass, which means the thin MDF shelves can feel like they sit sort of precariously on top. But the stand itself feels quite solid.

I want to incorporate a wood platform base, as many do, because I really love the look of a nice wood slab.

At first I thought maybe I’d have 3 spikes drilled in to the bottom corners of the wood base to directly couple it to the rest of the Lovan frame, vs resting it on the top mdf shelf. But I’m not sure that’s really necessary. And I’d like to incorporate some isolation as well, I think. So I’m thinking of just laying it on the top shelf, with something in between.

My first thought is to place a Symposium Segue shelf between the top of the Lovan shelf and the wood base.

Other than that...I’m flummoxed as to all the other choices...roller blocks? Symposium Fat Padz? Vibrapods? Herbie’s Tendersoft footers? Voo-Doo Isopods?  What should I put between the wood platform base and my Lovan shelf?

Any comments of suggestions on the direction I’m going?

Thanks!

(BTW, I’m an resolutely NOT a DIY/Handy-man type, so I’m not trying to go to heroic efforts, wishing this to be as painless as possible).
prof
I submit that rapping or knocking the stand or the iPad seismic app is actually ineffective for determining whether a particular stand design is effective or whether seismic vibration is getting into the component, especially a turntable.

First, as far as I could tell, the seismic apps are insensitive to the very lowest frequencies - the ones that are the biggest problem. These are the ones in the range of 0 to 20 Hz. Second, rapping or tapping a surface doesn’t generate the seismic vibrations of concern 0-20 Hz, only higher ones, ones that the turntable is relatively immune to, including acoustic waves. For turntables, the resonant frequencies of the tonearm, cartridge and platter are usually around 10-14 Hz, so the isolation stand resonant frequency should be much lower than 10 Hz to be able to significantly attenuate those frequencies 10-14 Hz, assuming a mass-on-spring device, since it’s a low pass mechanical filter. For example, if your isolation stand has a resonant frequency of around 4 Hz, attenuation at 10-14 Hz will be only around 50%. But if you can get the resonant frequency of the stand down to 2 Hz the attenuation will be up around 80%.

Of course the analysis is more complicated, since there are six count em directions of motion that should ideally be isolated. Holiday Hint: The effectiveness of isolation in a particular direction is proportional to how easily the component is able to move in that direction. This is why one should be wary of overdamping. Thus, undamped springs can be more effective than rubbery type materials or rubber air bladders or air springs.
@prof

I’ve had excellent results with the Funk Firm Achromat (5mm). As you are experiencing...there’s research, there are opinions, then the most important thing is action. In your system, they may not all align. Good luck!



@bdp24

When I first saw Lucinda refer to her song list/lyrics at a show, I was kind of taken aback. Then I realized, it’s a good thing for all.
When members say " I would" or "think about it" in the context of them never actually trying their proposed method, should be of taken in the context of the effort on their part in which it is mentioned...in their own systems.

Not saying this info is invalid, just that "action" speaks louder than words even in audio terms. In the end, your action is all that matters.
Well knocking on a material, does give one a very good reference as to how it will react in audio applications when that person is an observant "knocker".

Another situation where the requisite "action" = personal experience is required to evaluate in one's own system.

All points taken, fellers!

I really am listening to everyone, though at this point I have so many voices in my ear it's easy to become derailed.  I have no idea how to figure out the resonant frequency of my turntable, stand or base.

So at this point what I'm doing is just having some fun experimenting and ultimately I'm going to go with the method that gives me some peace of mind.  It's not of course that I think I've solved any vibration issues scientifically.  I think it's more about the mind-set my experiments create.  Just being able to distinctly feel the differences various material make in vibration gives me a more tactile basis on which way to go.  Among the many different suggestions I've received, and all the many other threads i've read, no doubt there is more accurate info, but it's hard to discern which it is.  So, again, I have to ultimately go on what makes me happy.  I doubt anything I'll be doing will actually make an audible difference (I admit I'm pretty skeptical about the tweakier side of high end audio), but I enjoy the idea of making a design based on my own ideas playing around with various materials/devices.