Spiking speakers not designed for spikes?


Has anyone had good luck doing this?  I have some PSB Stratus Golds from 1994 that I'm having problems upgrading, so I'm going to try tweaking what I have.  They have these cheesy, wooden bases that I'm nervous about removing or drilling into.  If I do decide to spike these suckers, would anyone recommend outriggers?  Or trying to attach spikes directly to the speakers.
Thank you for your time!
halecory
Will it be simple to find the right threaded spikes for those?
In Australia it was, as the local hardware shop had all different sizes, I just took a spike with me and he found the right size 8 of them and 8 lock nuts as well. and don’t forget the tube of Liquid Nails.

This is 4 you need 2 sets, and M8 is the "t" nut thread size 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-lot-M8-Iron-Speaker-Spikes-Hifi-Audio-AMP-Monitor-Isolation-Stand-Feet-42mm/312225878780?hash=item48b21cd2fc:g:yUEAAOSwR7Bbg7kt

Cheers George
halecory,

Obviously, the improvement is quite subjective and if it’s painful to deal with the nuts and bolts of it......bail.

Of course the spikes or TipToes are easy to try.

@halecory, some listeners (Robert Deutsch and Art Dudley in Stereophile, VPI's Harry Weisfeld) have been very impressed with the IsoAcoustic Gaia isolators, many of the UK reviewers are enthusiastic about the Townshend Audio Seismic products, and Audiogon's own Geoff Kait offers two different versions of his isolation springs.

The notion of cones and spikes being mechanical diodes (passing energy only one way) is obviously a myth. For proof, go onto You Tube and watch the short videos wherein Max Townshend demonstrates the difference between the same speaker spiked to a cement floor, and isolated from it with his Seismic platform. 

Oops, forgot roller bearings (Symposium Acoustics, Ingress Engineering, DIY).