Advice for mounting a TT shelf on a wall

Mount it where it’s comfortable to use or you will stop using it. I agree with not putting it in a corner, but other than that, I don’t think it’s that critical unless you have a very large system played at loud volumes. 

Before mounting play some heavy bass songs and place your hands on the wall where you think you might mount the TT and just feel the wall vibrate. Move your hand around and mount where the wall doesn't vibrate as much

IMHE the advice given here is solid. I have wall mounted my turntable for the past two decades after trying various other isolation systems that failed to prevent foot falls and other environmental effects. Hard to see in my system pictures but I'm using an oversized Target PS-1 wall mount shelf which I have modified as follows:

• Weather stripping along the wall facing surface to provide further isolation from the wallboard;
• Heavy duty stainless steel screws with washers inserted between the screwhead and the inner frame to provide the strongest possible bite into the studs;
• Herbies Giant Gliders facing upwards to support the shelf instead of metal points/spikes that are standard;
• Symposium Svelte Shelf (19" X 21") replaces the particle board shelf under the turntable. 

This has worked extremely well for me and is highly recommended for those who can find a Target PS-1 on the used market. My shelf is mounted so that the stylus is at eye level when I am standing. This takes it out of the way of prying hands and also allows me to adjust and setup the table with ease. 

I couldn't be more appreciative of the comments/suggestions. The mounting bracket came in today and is as professionally made as I have ever seen. The finish is perfect, but most of all, the bracket is even better/stronger than it needs to be. So now, I will go out in the shop and choose among the wood slabs for something that will work well with this bracket. I like the idea about Herbies giant gliders. Saw them somewhere recently for sale.

 Attaching this bracket will have to be spot on as well. I want to get as close to the center of each stud as possible. And I am with the thinking that the mounting must make continuous as possible contact with the wall. I am still considering the height though. I still have time. 

You are correct about hitting the studs dead center. Use a stud finder to locate and mark the edges of the studs. Then hold the bracket to the wall with a level across the top surface and move the holes to the exact middle between your marks and adjust to dead level. Now use a pencil to trace the screw holes. Next use a small drill to create pilot holes in the center of the tracings. Drill slowly, moving the bit in and out and note whether you feel resistance and see wood pulp emerge from the hole as the bit is pulled away from the wall. This will confirm whether you are in the stud—no resistance, no pulp, no stud. If all holes are good do a final check by placing the bracket back on the wall over the screw holes. Are the pilot holes in the middle of each bracket hole? Is the shelf level side to side (also check front to back though this will probably be level and if not will require adjustment of you bracket platform unless you choose to shim the bracket which is not a good idea). If all good then select a drill slightly smaller in diameter than the mounting screws you will be using (not including the threads) and mount away. Use the largest screws that will fit through the bracket holes and see if you can place a washer between the frame and where the screw enters the hole—I had to sand off some diameter for the washer to fit in the hole. Start the screws by hand and them drive them home with an electric drill—not cordless you will need torque. You will need another set of hand at various points. We have moved 4 times in the past 20 years so my wife is now an expert assistant! Good luck!