Aftermarket fuse to tame a bright system?

@cleeds I do not know what is causing this phenomenon with the Furutech stuff.
But what I do know is that I installed two of these GTX-D NCF Rhodium outlets months apart and observed the same crazy break in these things go thru each time. Or to be more precise what these outlets put the listener thru while breaking in. The sound is gorgeous straight out of the box. 10+ hours in it starts. It goes thru several phases including almost all highs, glare in the mids, no bass; then veiled mids, all bass no highs, then everything there top to bottom but super harsh and lean basically unlistenable; then all fatiguing mids and after that it begins to even out. I’ve never experienced anything like this other than with Furutech DTX-D NCF outlets and AC connectors. Their power cords take forever to break in as well.

As to why outlets make a difference, I do not know. Just like Paul McGowan doesn’t know why fuses make a difference. Is it the alloy they use? The plating? Rhodium conductivity? Contact surface? Anything happening at molecular level? No clue.

You should order the furutech gtx-d NCF outlet and try it out. See how it works in your system. And may be have an actual option of your own based on experience rather than picking on my post in another thread.

This is my only response to you as apparently having a normal conversation without jabbing isn’t something you’re capable of.

audphile1

You should order the furutech gtx-d NCF outlet and try it out. See how it works in your system.

I’m tempted. My system is biamplified and basically runs on four 20A derated dedicated lines: one for the HF amplifier, one for the LF amplifier, one for the preamp and analog sources, and one for digital. I don’t think premium outlets such as the Furutech were available when I installed those lines decades ago, so I used the best quality Leviton devices that were available at the time. I have very poor quality AC where I live, so each line floats on isolation transformers and this has worked relatively well.

I’ve tried Furutech AC plugs on some of my power cords (using Wireworld cable) and wasn’t impressed with the build quality. I’ve thought about upgrading the dedicated wall outlets but haven’t been sure whose to use (Furutech, Audioquest, Oyaide, Synergistic Research, etc.) and which of the four lines to install it on first. I don’t rule out a possible improvement because I’ve been surprised by seemingly small things before. Hence interest.

I also haven't tried an audiophile grade fuse because, in the same vein as audiophile outlets, I wonder about their possible sonic influence.

... This is my only response to you as apparently having a normal conversation without jabbing isn’t something you’re capable of.

Suit yourself.

The smoothest sounding fuse is likely Hifi-Tuning Supreme3 copper, but personally I’d change the speakers for smoother ones.

I am new to this/these forums, so I will just add my 2¢.

It is never a good idea to attempt to mitigate one problem by introducing an opposite coloration to balance the two. But you already knew that, right? 😉

The only path to success is to identify the problem, i.e. the source/cause of the brightness, then address that directly.

And contrary to other responses, as a degreed electrical engineer and an audiophile for 40+ years, a "cheap" fuse CAN alter the sound, but NEVER in a good way! Fuses only add another unwanted coloration - but you knew that already!

The very best way to tame brightness or any frequency-based colorations is to use an equalizer - either in the analog or digital domain - doesn't matter which. The proper/correct/judicious use of equalizers, in the hands of an expert, can and will fix essentially ALL frequency-related problems. Thank you.

Don Roderick, Tuxedo NY

droderick175

The very best way to tame brightness or any frequency-based colorations is to use an equalizer - either in the analog or digital domain - doesn't matter which.

I think using EQ is a solution of the last resort. Room treatment is the first thing to consider, imo.