Anti-skating question


I recently installed a new phono cartridge (DynaVector 10x4 MkII on Origin Live modified Rega RB250 on Planar 3 table). At first, I set the anti-skating force so that on a spinning grooveless record surface the tonearm would pretty much stay where it was set down or drift slowly outward. That, I assumed, was a pretty good and direct way to set the level of anti-skating force needed. Then, I put on HiFiNews&RecordReview’s test LP and used the anti-skating tracks – basically, you adjust the anti-skating until you hear no tracking distortion of the test signal in either channel. This procedure gave me a very different setting – one that does not counter (not nearly totally, anyway) the inward skating of the tonearm when set on a grooveless record surface. I would have thought the two methods would have produced more similar results. Any explanation for this? (I’ve stuck with the sonically-based setting for now.)
jayboard
You have to remember that the reason anti skating is necessary is from the effect of the grooves on the stylus. Using a grooveless record is not the same as a stylus in a groove. It is a good starting point, but once the stylus tracks in a groove, it requires more anti skate. This is my least favorite part of setting up a turntable. Unfortunately the tedious method of using the test record is the only way to go. Arms can't accurately be calibrated for anti skate, so don't ever trust any factory calibrated dial. Again, it would be a good starting point. Listening by ear has always seemed bad, because it is not good to play any record over and over again. They need to rest so that the deformed plastic can return to it's proper shape. Hope I have helped.
The correct use of anti-skating bias force is to counteract the force generated by the rotating (and modulated) groove interface with the stylus. A blank album side exhibits none of the characteristics of a real record. There are a number of reasons, some of which have already been stated, but using a blank record side will always leave you with much lower anti skating than would be necessary. The method of using distortion detection is a good approach, assuming that you have a test record with increasing modulation levels. Play the record up to the modulation level that causes audible distortion noting which channel is distorting. Increase (likely) the bias force and perform the test again, hopefully you will find that the distortion now occurs only at a higher modulation level. Continue the process until you reach a point where both channels distort at the same modulation level. Keep in mind that tracking force will greatly affect your levels of bias force. A good starting point is to use the highest tracking force recommended by the cartridge manufacturer. Do not fear going even slightly higher, cartridge (and LP) wear are typically caused by inadequate tracking force, this is due to the loss of contact between the stylus and the modulated groove. Kevin Halverson
Good info here guys. Thanks for taking the time to post it. Any suggestions as to good discs that you could use when initially setting up a vinyl rig ? What do you consider "too high" of a tracking force in terms of record wear ? I think my current cartridge calls for appr. 1.75 to 2.0 grams, which used to worry me quite a bit. Sean >
Thanks very much for the replies, folks. My puzzlement is that I’ve had to set anti-skating to less than what I’d expected, not more. To illustrate: Tracking force is 1.9 grams, at the high end of manufacturer’s suggested range. Using the visual, grooveless record method, I set anti-skating to a certain level. When I put on the test record (has four tracks with signal stepped up in amplitude to gauge anti-skating), this setting results in the left channel starting to mistrack before right channel, and I have to reduce anti-skating to achieve balanced L-R tracking. This is the opposite of what I would have expected. ………. Well, this really is mostly just intellectual curiousity. With so many geometric factors at work, it’s a puzzle. The setup is checking out OK according to the test record (with possible exception of azimuth, which may need fine-tuning of such a small degree that it might drive me crazy to attempt on a Rega arm), and the setup is sounding fine and balanced when playing real music. I’ll just continue to listen as the cartridge breaks in. If anyone wants to comment further, I’ll read with interest.