Anybody here terminate DH Labs BL-1 cable?


I want to make sure I'm terminating these correctly.
They have 2 conductors, a drain wire and a shield.

For unbalanced RCA termination, 1 wire for signal, 1 wire for ground, and combine the drain on the ground wire?
Is that correct? Or is the drain only used for balanced connections?

Thanks,
Itsik
itsikhefez
Re: the c7 connectors lack of ground, connect the ground lead at the mains plug only and cut it short at the c7 end.

It provides a little floating shield effect.

Regards




Since itsikhefez and Erik_Squires both appear to be quite comfortable with DIY projects, I thought I’d share the links to the interconnect and power cables that I now use throughout my system.

http://image99.net/blog/files/4127b5fe2694586e383104364360373b-74.html

http://image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html

They outperform some high priced commercial products (exceeding $2k) from some very big names that I have also tried in my system.

With the IC’s, I have experimented with many permutations of conductor type and RCA plugs over the past few years, from inexpensive CAT6 conductors for all conductors, to the more pricey conductors used in the articles, which I found outperformed all other combinations. The one constant in later iterations of their design were the KLE Innovations RCA plugs. I would recommend starting with the Silver Harmony as a minimum starting point. The price for the hardware recommended in the article is around $300 for a one meter pair. They can also work extremely well as Digital interconnects and with the added benefit that the Copper harmony can be used without any loss in SQ. I also use the Absolute harmony on my turntable leads because they convey exquisitely fine details no other RCA that I have tried can compete with.

The power cables take a little more effort, but a 5ft cable is priced somewhere between $100 (using DH Labs Power Plus bulk cable) and $200 (using Furutech 10 gauge Cable) for the live conductor and the IEC/Mains connectors specified

One thing all these cables require is sufficient burn in...
- Power Cables - at least 60 hours before they start to sound their best
- Interconnects - They start off sounding very good, but then SQ degrades a little from 35-55 hours, but then start to really shine around the 80 hour mark and just keep getting better after that.

The one drawback with these Interconnects - they resolve to extremely fine levels of detail and although you will notice a difference from installing just one set of cables between two components like a DAC and an integrated amp, but if your system has a pre-amp + power amp you would have to install a set between these two components also in order to hear them at their very best.

Net Result...
- a much deeper and more controlled bass performance
- unsurpassed clarity across the entire frequency range
- extremely fast dynamics across the entire frequency range
- a holographic image that dissolves the walls of your listening room
- a color-free presentation with exquisitely natural timbres
- extremely fine details that recreates the realism of the recording venue

As for speaker cables - I use the KLE Innovations gZero6 model.- I have not yet tried building a helix version because I require a 10 ft pair and that gets a little tricky to build.

I found these cables elevated the performance of my modest $14k (CDN) system, surpassing systems exceeding $50k, so as you might guess - I’m a pretty happy listener :-)

One very surprising observation - my components run significantly cooler using these cables - strange, but true.

Start with one pair and see where it takes you :-)

Are there better cables out there? probably, but at what cost?

Enjoy
FYI - the prices/costs mentioned above are what the parts will cost you to DIY

I do not build cables for other people - it’s strictly DIY

Apologies for any confusion
@williewonka Thanks for the detailed post and links. Those designs do look interesting although seem a bit more complicated than what I can get into currently but will reference them surely in the future.

I’m starting my first DIY IC’s now with Mogami 2534 and BL-1 as stated in this post and will be doing some comparisons between the two.
For the Mogami I used Neutrik Profi and the BL-1 will be terminated with Furutech FP-126.

I am a bit regretting not getting the KLE. I’m not convinced there should be any noticable difference (hence comparing myself) but they do seem to be recommended all over.

I am also planning on assembling a power cord with DH Labs Power Plus and standard Marinco connectors.