Apple TV Streaming Sound Quality vs Streamer?


I am looking for the weak link to improve sound quality.   Seems logical it is the Apple TV as a source.  Would a moderate streamer inside of $1500 make much of a difference when streaming Tidal and the like?  

Current Equipment:
Speaker: Dali Euphonia MS-4
AMP: Modwright KWA 150 SE
Preamp/ DAC: Peachtree Grand Integrated
Source: Tidal / Apple TV
puffbojie
Since adding the Benchmark Dac, I really enjoy the added detail but it seems to be a little brash in my system or at least to what I’m used to.  Would the synchro mesh mellow it out a little?  Or am I better off getting a more laid back dac? If so what are some good ones in the 1-2k used market?

If it's a Benchmark DAC3, then there is not much you can do.  It is fairly jitter intolerant.  It is what it is.

I would recommend to try either the Metrum DACs or the Border Patrol DAC with the Synchro-Mesh. These DAC's enable the benefits of the SM.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio

Steve, what means "HDMI is not hi-res"? HDMI 1.3 by its spec is a Dolby TrueHD / DTS-HD Master Audio bitstream compatible if devices support it. And even if we suggest that HDMI doesn't pass a bitstream hi-res signal, but using it instead of ATV's AirPlay with 16/44.1(-->48) is a huuuge difference, even for my non-perfect ears. And the signal is already PCM/88.2 on AV.

HDMI protocol was created for movies, not playback of digital audio formats. DTS is great for movies, but even DTS is nothing compared to 24/192 or 512DSD as an audio format.  The other problem with HDMI is that lack of good DAC's and reclockers to reduce jitter.  The best you can do to reduce jitter is the iFi SPDIF iPurifier which passes Dolby Digital/DTS.  I use these in my Home Theater, but not good enough for my audio system.

If your HDMI sounds better than your audio system, you need to upgrade your audio system IMO.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio 

Steve, thx for your response. Just making it clear. If HDMI supports bitstream, that means it transfers a digital signal bit-by-bit, so there can be no jitter lugs whatsoever. E.g. when you transfer a digital video via HDMI you can’t see a radio-style noise on like on old TV screens, because the data comes as is. The only possible visual artefacts you may encounter is a "snow" on some bad cheap cables or don't see anything at all because the data is corrupted. But if it’s a properly made HDMI cable then it doesn’t affect a digital data is transfers. So I just want to make everything clear step-by-step, for example: why 18Gbps (2.0) is not enough to transfer a bitstream hi-res audio via HDMI when here can be no jitter/need for reclockers/etc.?
Steve: Do you have any experience with the Auralic Vega Dac? Are these more laid back than benchmark and would they benefit from the Synchro-Mesh?

Steve, thx for your response. Just making it clear. If HDMI supports bitstream, that means it transfers a digital signal bit-by-bit, so there can be no jitter lugs whatsoever.

Not true. Jitter is ALWAYS a factor to minimize. Never zero. Any company that claims zero is dreaming.


But if it’s a properly made HDMI cable then it doesn’t affect a digital data is transfers.

Sure it does. The better the HDMI cable, the more clear and focused the picture will be.

why 18Gbps (2.0) is not enough to transfer a bitstream hi-res audio via HDMI when here can be no jitter/need for reclockers/etc.?

This is not just bandwidth, although that is important. The dielectric absorption and reflections from the fast-rising digital signal impinging on the discontinuities in the conductor crystal-lattice all cause the signal to have poor "integrity". What is important is the risetime of the signal, not the frequency of the signal. It requires a really good HDMI cable, Ethernet cable, S/PDIF cable or USB cable to maintain these risetimes and not create reflections that impact sound quality.

This is why I only use pure silver digital cables from Wireworld or Empirical Audio. It’s the difference between music and live music.

As for reclockers, these make an even bigger difference for both Home Theater Dolby Digital and for PCM audio tracks.  You don't know what you are missing until you try one of these.  For $150 for the iFi SPDIF iPurifier, what do you have to lose?  Just return it to Amazon if it doesn't work for you.  This will give you a small taste of what a reclocker can do.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio