Best Isolation Device for Speakers?


Has anyone had a chance to directly compare different speaker isolation tweaks? I am wondering because of the recent thread on the Sistrum stand. I know that many of these things have been discussed in other posts, but there is not alot of direct comparison among them. I suspect that most of these are excellent, so if anyone has some information on their specific sonic impact, that would be helpful. I have a pair of Thiel 7.2s. Some of the ones I am considering:

Aurios Pro
Sistrum Speaker Stand
Mana Speaker Stand
Stillpoints
Audiopoints

Thanks,
Rob
rtn1
Zargon...I understand the problem. My speakers don't hang either, although I did try it for a while, pre-wife. But I have heard speakers set up this way in a very large room with cathedral ceiling, and it was superb.
Zargon,

I think you are on the right track to isolate your speakers from the floor. You might find better results with a platform which is more massive that MDF - granite, marble, or custom poured concrete (decorated with something of course). Your speakers should sit on this platform on three pointed feet. If you wish to get adventurous, do what I have done: use bicycle tires to float the platform (isolate) above the carpeted floor. I can give you details if you are interested.

Here are the issues, in order of importance as I see them:

1) You do not want your floors and walls vibrating. If they do, they will radiate sound which is very bad. You cannot avoid exciting floor/wall vibration from acoustic excitation, but you can reduce speaker mechanical vibration from exciting your floor. Please note we are not talking concrete slab floors here, we are talking about wood floor over joists.
2) You do want the mechanical connection, between speaker and floor (or for that matter, all the rest of your system) to be linear. Rattles must be avoided as they destroy music and generate unwanted noise. Also you do not want the mechanical connection to be modulated by the music (or associated speaker vibration). If the connection is through a squishy or rubbery material, this is also less than optimum because the material is not linear, and music loses its pace and timing.
3) You do not want the speaker box to vibrate - only the driver diaphram(s). This of course is a distinguishing feature of loudspeaker designs, the degree to which cabinets vibrate and radiate sound, or excite the floor beneath them.

If you have a concrete floor, anchoring the speakers to the floor addresses item 3. If your floor can vibrate, then item 1 is likely of much greater importance.

Using cone or points under the speakers can actually help all three of these. Transfer to the floor (1) is reduced because the interface points of contact are limited to corners and edges of the cabinet where box modal vibration is minimized. The linearity (2) of the interface is improved. And this usually reduces at least the lowest frequency motion of the box (3)to greater or lesser degree.

In my experience, while using cones under my speakers provided a huge improvement in sound quality (over speakers on bare floor), there was still significant floor and wall vibration which I could hear and also feel with my hands and ear (against the floor). The sound improved even further when I isolated the speakers from the floor. I tried sorbothane, rubber feet, stainless steel sash springs, and finally bicycle tire "air springs."

In your case, you could get some of the best of both worlds ("coupling" vs "isolation") if your speakers sit on cones on (coupled to) a massive platform. The platform (isolated from the floor) sits on soft linear springs.

If you have children or pets, or concern over the 5As being "tipsy", then maybe the air springs are not for you. In my case, after hearing the difference, I am more than willing to explain to visitors why my speakers are "floating" like a turntable and bounce or rock at a few Hertz when you bump them.

Please report your experiences so we all can learn from them.

Cheers,

Charlie
You have lost efficiency by hanging the speaker in air.The natural tendency is for the cone to move back and forth. The back emf is swinging the speaker.. The front force of the cone is being cancelled by the back emf. Who wants that? An athlete can get off the line faster and with more stability if they have spiked shoes. Cabinet, no matter how dense will store energy.In fact the more dense the cabinet the more resonant noise it can hold.So it is even more important to direct couple these type of massive enclosures. The noise has to be given a way out or it will pollute the music..Tom
Theaudiotweak...The natural period of swinging object (of any weight) on a chain as short as 40 inches is one second, not an audible frequency. The force exerted due to cone motion (its mass and air resistance) is a few ounces, and won't move a 100 pound speaker system enough to be detected. So the idea that the speakers will be swinging around wildly when they play is only believed by those who have never experimented with this setup.

Spikes, or other means of mechanically coupling the bottom panel of a speaker box to the floor may damp vibration of that bottom panel, but will do nothing for the front, back sides and top. Vibrational energy does not need to be "drained" like a fluid from the box. Damping material in and on the box absorbs the vibration which produces heat. The heat does indeed escape from the box, but you can't hear heat.
Sir you are mistaken. The back and forth motion of a 100lb speaker on a carpeted floor while reproducing music is greater than the total excursion of the tweeter in that very same speaker. So much for proper phase response and time alignment..And sound is like fluid. Unwanted energy needs an exit point..Tom