Check this out

To each his own. I have no interest in making an argument over this. I don't even have the blasted table. And it is likely that I never will, because I can't afford it anyway.

They made the table that way because they thought it sounded better and felt they could make it stable. Time will tell.

One final response to Dan ed ....
I say wet wood because all wood is wet at some level. The cell structure of wood makes it like a sponge, even when kiln dried, the moisture content is only reduced, never eliminated and will still change to be in equilibrium with the surrounding air.

No TWL does not work for Teres but I clearly appreciate his support. Thanks Tom!

About PEG. PEG only works with wet or green woods and it is not effective with the dense woods we use. Yes kiln dried wood still has some moisture, but not enough to work with PEG.

I can't believe that you are seious about soaking MDF and it didn't change dimensions. MDF has terrible dimensional stability. It swells like a sponge when it gets wet. The advantage of MDF is that is does not warp. I have done a number of projects using painted MDF and you can always see the joints after a short time. It's no worse than solid wood but it certainly is no better. I have tried MDF for a turntable base and it's not bad, but nothing like hardwood.

Yes I realize it works with green (or water logged) wood. You would treat the wood while green then let it dry. I believe it has been used by woodworkers successfully on a wide variety of wood densities. Many turned bowls and vases are made from the exotics you use by just this method. You have to use PEG of the appropriate molecular density - but you have no doubt researched this more than I.
As for MDF, there are newer, moisture resistant varieties that are pretty stable compared to wood when soaked - at least in my experience. I believe they use phenolic resins. But of course, they still will swell some since they are, after all, a wood fiber product

Jyprez,

Will a wood platter last forever? Nobody knows, yet buying decisions have to be made. Let's review what we do know.

NO ONE who's heard a top level Teres has ever claimed they've heard a better table, short of a Walker. MANY who've heard a top level Teres say it whallops every table that sells for less than 2-3X the price. Compare the specs of even an entry-level Teres 135 ($1,500-ish) to anybody else's TT that sells for less than $3,000. The other table will hide its head in shame. SUMMARY: both on paper and in listening tests the entire Teres lineup offers extraordinary value. This is relevant to your concerns, please stay with me...

Assume one wants to buy $10,000 "worth" of TT. One could:
a) buy an acrylic VPI, SME or Clearaudio for that price or,
b) buy a wood-plattered Teres 265 for $3,700.
Musicality and aesthetics aside, it's clearly more prudent to buy the Teres and invest the difference. If the wood platter warps every five years(!) you buy another platter and remain financially well ahead.

Assume one wants to buy $25,000 "worth" of TT. One could:
a) buy an SME 30 or Walker for that price or,
b) buy a Teres 340 for $6,500.
Same approach as above.

BTW, I'd recommend investing one's procurement cost-savings in more LP's, but that's a personal financial decision!

Wow, I just made a business case for buying a $3,700 or $6,500 cocobolo turntable! :) Anyone with WAF issues please copy. Like Twl, I don't work for Teres, but I'd be proud if I did. Better products + lower costs = happy customers.

Yyprez and/or Dan_ed, you're both welcome to come over and listen any time. The LP's can be yours or mine, but the risk will be all yours!