Circuit breakers and dirty power

I would recommend several dedicated 20 amp circuits and cryogenically treated outlets. See below:

Here is some information from several of my posts on Audiogon (another similar topic).

“I have experimented over the last year with various wires to use for dedicated 20-amp circuits. I have the following wire in use in no special order:
1) 10 gage Romex
2) 10 gage UV
3) Belden 83802
4) Virtual Dynamics 10 gage BX Cryogenically treated with Cryo’d circuit breaker. *

I have not tried the following but I’m sure it works, 10 gage solid THHN (white/black/green) manually (electric drill) spiral twist and snake through conduit.

To my ears on my revealing system I hear NO difference between (1-4)! I think simply using a dedicated circuit with 10 gage copper makes the biggest difference.

* There might be other positive factors to using cryogenically treated wiring besides sonics. It might lower the operating temperature of equipment.

I have also experimented with many outlets regular/cryogenically treated. My last purchase was the Acme silver plated/Cryo'd outlet which finally settled in and sounds good.

At the present time my favorite outlets are as follows: Hubbell 5362, Hubbell 8300, Wattgate 381, all three sound very good, I think I like the Hubbell 5362 just a bit more (a smoother more musical, dynamic presentation)
but I rank all three together. A person could buy three Hubbell's fully treated by Alan for the cost of one Wattgate 381!

Next in line I would rank the Acme silver plated/Cryo'd and the FIM (cryo'd) which I had Alan cryo/cable-cook.

The best looking put together, solid, built to last outlet I have seen and have in my possession is the Hubbell".

Larry, I agree with you about the 5362. I bought a bunch of Hubbell and Pass&Seymour chocolate and vanilla ones if anybody wants any cheap. The Hubbell may be slightly sturdier than the P&S, or the Hubbell/Bryant, but ALL Hubbells and P&S's have great clamping strength, which is a big part of their performance........ The improvements in lowered noisefloor and more open top octave from using a shield-drained and all-Teflon dielectric line (like the 83803 (12AWG) and 83806 (9AWG) are usually quite noticeable...just like in a PC similarly manufactured. But there are SO many variables in systems, ambient noise, tweeter and hearing rolls, etc......... I'm still a dis-believer re cryogenic treatment of conductive materials. My belief is that the cryogenic process may SLIGHTLY affect the stabilization of the DIELECTRICS involved, hastening burn-in. But there are better ways to accomplish this for some dielectrics that can withstand ceratin other processes that are easier to perform.....Re circuit breakers I'd suggest that "exercising" them a few times with contact cleaner is more important than cryo. JMO. Cheers.

just don't use a GFI breaker electrically they're very noisy.
The quietest mains connection can be had by using a subpanel with an Edison fuse, vs. a circuit breaker.
The switching transients from the water heater may possibly be adequately isolated by running the audio rig on a DEDICATED CIRCUIT. If that doesn't completely stop the noise then you'll need Audio Prism Quiet Line, or some other transorb such an a GE V130LA20B M.O.V. installed across the line. Many line conditioners incorporate MOV's integral to the design.

Thanks to all who responded. I am not sure of the model # of the Hubbles that I have. I ordered them at work through a Mcmaster Carr catalog. I will look them up Monday again to see which they are. I know they are orange with no model # printed on them. Again, thanks