Do you think you need a subwoofer?

This may not mean much but I thought I'd share abit along this theme about 'tables and LF speakers. My old Aerial 10t's are rear ported and just drip with chest pounding bass, even when pulled out 6 to 7 feet from the back wall. I once used a decibel meter and found that if I pulled the equipment stand out at least 18 inches from the back wall that the LF build up dropped off dramatically. Also, it was best to avoid the area equal distance between the speakers along the back wall.

Dear friends: For almost two years I was running the crossover frequency between my main speakers and the Velodyne's at 85-90 Hz.
It sound very good and let free the main speakers for the low bass reproduction responsibility lowering the Intermodulation Distortions level. The issue with that crossover frequency is that the subwoofers are reproducing frequencies that are not only out of its best frequency range of perfect quality reproduction but that those " high frequencies " are recognizable coming from the subs and " interfering " with the overall quality sound reproduction.

Two weeks ago I begin trying other croosover frequencies and ( today with my ystem ) I find that 60 Hz ( I try down to 40 Hz )is the way to go. This crossover frequency change makes wonders on the quality sound reproduction of my system, specially on transparency ( see through ), detail, immediacy and overall soundstage. Through this change my system is a " new system ", a lot better quality sound reproduction audio system, I'm feeling nearer to the recording, nearer to the live event with an increase of music emotions.

Well, like any of you I'm always looking for a better way to go, fortunately ( till today ) almost always exist that better " road ".

Regards and enjoy the music.
raul.

Rauliruegas...My experiments with SW crossover frequency has led me to the conclusion that, at least for my speakers, there is no one "correct" frequency. My main speakers, MG1.6, are good to 40 Hz, and my custom SW systems are good to 400 Hz, so I am free to vary over quite a range. The best X/O frequency depends on the type of music, and how loud I play it. Classical chamber music calls for 40 Hz and Organ music sounds best at 200-300 Hz. These are extreme examples, most of the time I run around 80 Hz. My point is that the crossover electronics should permit the frequency to be easily changed, and one should not be afraid to adjust it as freely as the volume control.

Raul,and other interested folks,if the main speakers can support a certain low frequency,before rolling off,it will be best to bring in the sub at just under this point.
EX:if the main speaker(my Ascents for example)are giving in room response to about 35hz,experiment with the sub crossover point just below that.Maybe coming in at around thirty hz.This MUST be played around with,as the room/placement will affect sound.
I believe the lower sub setting is definitely BEST here,because even though we cannot hear the main speaker low cut off point in exact terms,it still has some output beneath our perceptions(due to room loading).So we do not want the sub to overlap this,or you get a thickening of sound.Also,keep the gain setting LOW!!Too many sub owners try to go overboard with bass volume.You want the stage to open up,releasing depth and a wealth of high freq detail.NOT bloat!This is masked if the sub is not placed in room,and set PERFECT!It can take time,but is well worth the effort.
Many current sub models can be integrated very well to almost any decent speaker.It is a far better way to get a nice speaker upgrade(financially),rather than selling the main speaker,taking a huge loss,and buying new.Providing one has a very good main speaker.One reason why I have kept my "incredible"(should be spelled with capital letters)Avalon Ascent MK-II's.Just add a good sub,and these Gems still amaze,with a huge stage presentation,and detail in abundance.The business of diamond driver/Berrylium technology,though fine, kind of loses meaning when these speakers are given todays best supporting componentry! Just my two cents worth.
Hope this makes sense.It works,for me.
Best!

In the golden age of vinyl playback (1965-1985 or so), subwoofers were practically unknown. And yet, my LP playback system uses little Mirage Omnisat satellites and a matching LF-150 150w 10" sub. These sats have the advantages of being linear down to 70 Hz and a power handling rating of 175w each. I think using a small, musical sub is the best-kept secret in vinyl playback.

First of all, we're all familiar with the advantages of mini-monitors and small speakers--the small front baffle makes for great imaging and the small size avoids most of the cabinet resonances that plague larger speakers. Second, a good sat/sub setup makes it easier to iron out anomalies that often plague vinyl playback.

My turntable setup seemed to increase the sensitivity to a 100 Hz in-room hump. All I had to do is lower the adjustable crossover point on the sub and it was fixed.

In system tuning, optimizing full-range speakers (let alone minimonitors) for imaging *and* bass response can drive you crazy. A sub enables you to tune for both. It also helps to compensate for mastering deficiencies. Some LPs have thin bass; I can goose it with the sub. OTOH, some LPs have rumble. I can dial that out with a sub as well, without affecting the response curve where the music is.

Matching a sub to a room and to satellites can be difficult too, but I've so far successfully optimized three different Mirage subs to three entirely different rooms and rigs. Their speed and natural musicality combined with adjustable crossover range, phase, and volume control make it relatively easy.