Does anyone use wood for vibration control?


What kind of wood have you found to be best?
bksherm

I'd agree with GeoffKait about set up.  The cones I use under the purpleheart and padauk bases are Golden Sound cones with squares.  And between my components and the wood bases I put springs that Geoff sells.  It's a set up (not the wood type itself, but the springs and cones) that Geoff recommends.  And I can say it all works very well. 

At a somewhat higher price point, the fabricated Marigo Isothermal platforms might be worth looking at.  As I said before they do work extremely well to steady up my speaker baffles.  I haven't tried them under electronics myself, but I am going to guess that they are very good for those too. 


audionuttoo5 posts04-14-2019 10:04pmVisit anything to do with Michael Green Audio and you will learn much about the use of wood in audio to make proper use of those “good vibrations”!

>>>>Hey, why be a shill? The discussion is right here on Audiogon.  You’re welcome to join in.

For audio cones there is a direct relationship between performance and hardness. Check it out. The Moh’s scale of hardness has diamond as a perfect 10.0 The best sounding audio cones are high on the Moh scale, less sonically effective cones are lower on the Moh scale. The NASA grade ceramics DH (diamond hardness) cones are right below diamond on the Moh scale. The Shun Mook Diamond Resonators use diamond tips on highly resonant Mpingo wood. Then we have hardened high carbon steel, with aluminum, carbon fiber and brass much farther on down the scale. Followed by soft rubber type materials, which by and large tend to store energy as opposed to allow energy to exist the system rapidly. 

https://www.alansfactoryoutlet.com/hubfs/hardness-of-metals-visual-representation-mohs-scale-5.png

lol, you keep right on shillin audionuttoo, there are no real discussions here.


MG

I built a custom rack with wood shelves using a vintage, heavy and stable welded iron frame I found at auction. The supporting brackets are simple 90 degree L bars welded to corner verticals. I needed to isolate all three shelves from direct contact with the iron frame which had a small but perceptible harmonic when hit.

The shelves are a layered concept consisting of a bottom layer of 3/4 inch Baltic plywood with an upper layer of 1 inch (finished thickness) tiger maple. The edges of the plywood cannot be seen as it is recessed into the L bars.

The two layers are isolated from the frame and from each other with Fat Dots from Herbie's Audio Lab. The decoupling is near perfect and there is little to no transmission of vibration to the maple. By using this "sandwich" design with two discrete layers of isolating/decoupling material I seem to have  eliminated the need for using 2+ inch wood stock.

Other than having to cover most of what is great looking tiger maple with equipment, I am super pleased with the results. The experiment paid off well.