Electrical question re dedicated line


In my home situation(new house) the electrician who came by to install a dedicated line said it would be too difficult and very expensive. Another electrician said that I could have a dedicated line but it would be external and would travel accross the outside of my walls(insulated of course) and would have a little box for the receptacle outside of the wall on the wall. My question is that the fact that my system is on a circuit with it's own breaker, is that kind of like a dedicated line? The breaker my system is on has 4 seperate receptacles on it in my room but only my power regenerator(PS P500) is conected to one of those receptacles.In other words, all that is on the circuit that goes to the 4 receptacles in my listening room is my P500. The other receptacles are not in use. Is that kind of like a dedicated line? Would there be much advantage to doing what one electrician said was possible and have an externaly run dedicated line?
My system is :
Pass X250 amp
Pass X1 preamp
Talk Electronics Thunder3.1b CDP
Hales Transcenence 5's speakers
PS Audio P500 power plant
Shunyata Aries and Lyra interconnects and speaker cable
Prototype power cords which were not given a name but are good as I've compared them against Shunyata King Cobra V2 and Synergistic Designers Reference and much prefered the cords I have.
Any help would be valued. Thanks
128x128mitchb
In N. America, the incoming 220 volts are split into (2) 110 volt legs in you main panel box and they are in opposite phase. Each of these legs also has other appliances (breakers) on them which add noise to the leg. If one of your circuts that feed your equipment is hooked up to one leg and the other equipment circut is hooked up to the other leg, then you are picking up the noise on both legs and raising your noise floor. If you hook up both circuits to the same leg in the panel box, you are only getting half the noise, because you are only picking up the noise on that LEG as opposed to picking up the noise from both legs.
In addition, you can avoid any noisey appliance breakers ( Like A/C, washing machine, fridge and furnace breakers) to the other leg that your equipment is not on, further reducing the noise on the leg that you are using for your equipment.
Further. If you have dedicated lines feeding your gears and they are plugged to the wall. You shouldn't need any power conditioner or power generator. If you do, you are adding another piece of electronics into your systems that will change deteriate the sound and you will hear the electronics too.
Mitchb,

A dedicated line is one with no other devices on it. That's what you have, so long as you keep the other 3 outlets vacant. Save your money, or, if you're picky have the other 3 outlets removed and blank plates installed.

Peterd,

I once dealt with a guy whose job was investigating deaths by electrocution. He told me (from, ahem, experience) that separate ground rods can vary greatly in potential, especially during an electrical storm. It is a safety hazard to have some of your electrical appliances attached to a different ground source than the rest. Are you in a hurry to hear the stereo in heaven?
Furthermore, the NEC states that the ground conductor must be part of the same cable supplying the electrical box. In other words, you cannot run a 2 conductor cable for hot and neutral and a separate one for ground, but you can run 3 conductor Romex. If you have an electrical fire, good luck getting the insurance to pay for wiring that doesn't meet code.
I would recommend the following regardless of internal or external house wired:

1. Install one 20 amp dedicated line for your amp. There is a distinct possibility that the X250 draws more current than similarly powered amps. Marty DeWulf of Bound for Sound seems to think so regarding this amp. Regardless, any amp close to this current draw should have a 20 amp circuit/line so as not to potentially limit the current draw during demanding dynamic passages.

2. Install a 15 amp dedicated line for your digital source. A digital source injects much noise back into the line and will pollute any other component sharing the same line.

3. Install another 15 amp line for your preamp. Again, you do not want anything sharing the same line with your power amp. Just a small current draw of 35 watts (typical of a pre-amp) sharing the same line as the amplifier can be just enough to strip away and flatten the dynamics of demanding passages thereby potentially rendering the presentation rather lifeless.

4. Now that you have 3 dedicated lines, I'd recommend selling the multi-outlet PS500 and then purchase three dedicated passive line conditioners that have no practical current limitation of it's own and simply cleans up the AC.

5. Request that the electrician install all dedicated lines on the phase/leg that has the least amount of motorized appliances.

If you haven't already thought of it, you may as well have the electrician install some audio grade outlets while he's there.

-IMO
Sean maybe the best person to ask regarding dedicated lines, grounds, safety, etc. You can also check the archives for great information. IMO one of the larger benefits to a dedicated line is that the ground wire is not severed and shared between several outlets (regardless of what's connected to the other outlets) and you can use a hefty guage wire which will not restrict current. I use a double run of 12 guage wire to my 20amp breakers and this excedes code. I agree with everyone's opinion regarding dedicated outlets on the same leg. One thing I wouldn't do is go out and sell your P500 because you install a dedicated line but I'd consider installing atleast two dedicated lines, one for your amp & one for your front end. Also, If you're having dedicated lines installed I'd go with one more than you think you'll need because you may end up growing into the other. I had 3 lines installed and began using only two of them but grew into the third line. If I had four lines, I'd probably use all four at this point.