John, to remove leads I use a tiny fine slot screwdriver. I insert into the tiny opening between the lead and cartridge prong and rotate slowly.
Lead will come loose. To close leads that have opened I insert a round wood toothpick at the opening I want squeeze gently with pliers.
After learning how Frogman removes dimples from dome tweeters, I would be very interested to know how he does cart lead fix. 8^0
PS to my above post: It seems that the spindle on the ET-2 is anodized aluminum.
I held a magnet to it and found NO attraction. Duh! So, how does mounting a cabinet magnet under the spindle provide any appreciable damping?
Enquiring minds want to know.
that’s a question for Pegasus and I believe Dover also who used a fridge magnet. A picture is worth a thousand words !
using the best AudioGon Draw here is how I set it up.
x...0....x
x’s represent magnets - same poles facing one another
0 is the exiting spindle.
I need to go do some boat cleaning. can post a pic later of how I experimented with the magnetic damping, before it was abandoned. but I warn ahead time .....this is heading into that Audiophile dark area.....for reasons posted previously.
*****
Also Harry - I’d like to discuss the bass further, and I am very curious about Johns speaker setup.
fwiw - the Vandy sub was crossed off my list because it requires you go through their crossover first and then to your mains. Was not going to happen in my room..
So just a question.
Bass waves are slower than all the others. So why do people put subs X feet behind their mid and tweeter drivers ? Just asking.
If I was you Harry I would be very tempted just "temporarily", to set up in near field for one hour - just to hear what was possible with one sub. Then negotiate with the wife later. 8^0 hah hah
Cheers Chris
