Fuse for SEAS Millennium T25 CF002-06 Tweeter.


These fairly expensive tweeters blow out more easily than any I have used. Fortunately replacement voice coils are available, but it's a damn nuisance. When I ordered new voice coils a while back I asked Madisound what fuse might be appropriate to protect the tweeter, but they were pretty skeptical that any fuse would work.

Good news, sort of. A 1 amp slow blow works. It took a real blast from some experimentation I was doing to blow the fuse, but it was the fuse and not the tweeter.
eldartford
Trelja...Yes I do think these tweeters are more delicate than most, but what I did to them was far beyond normal use. I suppose the lightweight coil enhances HF response. I have no complaint with SEAS, except perhaps that they should have recommended fusing.
I'd say the Spica TC-50 tweeter (Audax) takes the prize for easiest blow. At least the way I used to drive them at those wild 1980's parties with that Adcom GFA! I used to go through Spica voice coils the way I go through Ben and Jerry's ice cream now. They'd always blow on the wire lead-in before it entered the actual coil, and I was always tempted to try just reconnecting them with a dab of solder. John Bau was kind enough to sell replacement pairs at cost. I used to keep a personal "inventory" so I wouldn't have to wait for them to arrive by mail from New Mexico. In fact, I'm still keeping a couple, just in case I pull the TC's out of the storage room someday.
Eldartford, you are way too easy. You're a better man than I! There's no way that I would not have an issue with Seas were I in your shoes. Were we to see this issue with the Frieds, Seas would have heard about it. And, if the problem continued, our tweeters would be Vifas, ScanSpeaks, or Dynaudios.

I have never seen a tweeter above the junk level that "needed" a fuse. Let's just say I am more of a purist (and a lot younger), and refuse to compromise the performance of a tweeter I am paying this kind of money for. On the other hand, if you are intent on running these experiments, you might consider the fuse for your testing, and then removing it once the speaker is sited in the system and then sees only music.

After discussing the matter with my dear friend last night, who just happens to be the foremost loudspeaker repairman in the world, he noticed nothing out of the ordinary regarding the volume of these drivers he sees. In fact, he wasn't even that familiar with this tweeter.

Bud put fuses on all of the Frieds after a customer sent a pair in with fried tweeters. It was because he hated doing warranty work, and realized that some people were apt to abuse the speaker by feeding it insufficient power. Still, in my opinion, his cost in fuses exceeded the warranty work that would have come in. When we would discuss this, he eventually admitted that the warranty work prior to the fuse days was not even worth worrying about.

Opalchip, your issue with the Spicas was that you were not feeding them enough power. The Adcom was underpowered (believe it or not!), and the continued frying of the tweeters voice coil ala the clipped musical wave took its unfortunate toll. Too high power will be seen in the midranges and woofers, too low power is seen in the tweeters. But, I can never fault someone for playing their speakers too loud - unless I'm trying to sleep.