Grouding for dedicatied lines?

I ran a dedicated line to the audioroom and separated it into 4 circuits. I ran a 220V and stepped it down with a toroidal transformer. If you are going to run a dedicated line--I recommend this. It gives you two live wires out of phase (both at 55v). As for the ground I used a dedicated true earth ground nearest the subpanel (located adjacent to the audioroom). There was the concern of hum with different grounds, but I was fortunate and didn't have that problem. Definitely one of the most cost effective upgrades I have ever done.

If you tell a qualified electrician to run a "DEDICATED" circuit with "ISOLATED" ground to each receptacle, what you will have is the following: A separate Hot, neutral, and ground wire from the receptacle back to your panel. The ground wires will be electrically isolated from any other ground or neutral wires in your system.

To be "DEDICATED" each receptacle would be on a separate circuit breaker (or fuse). Normally, the neutral and ground would be landed on the same neutral bar in your panel, and from there a main ground conductor would run to your main house grounding point. Usually a ground rod driven into undisturbed earth).

To be truly "ISOLATED", a separate grounding bar which is electrically isolated from the electric panel enclosure is installed in the electric panel. The main ground wire from your main grounding electrode (rod) would be attached to this bar, and all the circuit ground wires would be attached to this "ISOLATED ground bar" If your system is old, this may be difficult thing to do.

However, a separate ground (not isolated) from each receptacle back to the panel will likely suffice for your needs. Occasionally, the separate grounds are taken all the way back to the main grounding point, but if this is not done correctly, and a ground wire becomes loose and somehow creates another path to ground, the results could be dangerous. This is also true of any gound conductor, anywhere in the system.

Bottom line: If you consult with a qualified electrician, and tell him exactly what you are wanting, he/she should be able to provide a code approved installation.

Hope this helps.

Addendum to my previous post, please note: It is necessary that ALL ground wires are ultimately grounded at one, and only one, main grounding electrode. Due to the difference in electrical potiential of the two grounding points, failure to do this could result in damaged equipment, or even electrocution. This is a code required life safety issue!

Hi, I just installed a dedicated power supply. From main breaker box from a 50 amp breaker I ran 6 awg romex to sub main box.Sub main box (8 breaker type) I used 4 20 amp breaker that were connected to same phase at this box which is important for best results.I ran seperate ground wire to sub main box to 10 foot ground rod (make sure electrician installs this seperate ground rod & doesn't tie into existing ground rod because this really lowers the noise.Note the 6 awg 3 wire romex between main & sub box the ground wire is connected from sub box to main box & seperate ground to outside rod is connected to sub box.I then installed 4 seperate dual gang (2 outlet) outlets. This made a big difference with quieter background, better bass and no annoying pops when ac unit or refrigerator cycles.Also I have great results using a Chang Lightspeed CLS 9600 ISO power conditioner everthing except amp is plugged direct to outlet for best results. Hope this helps it worked great for my ststem.

Although I agree that a separate ground wire and grounding rod to the sub-main box MAY lower noise, electrical code strictly prohibits this for the aforementioned safety reasons. You won't pass inspection if you do this. It doesn't sound like the original poster has the understanding to do some post-inspection reworking. Stay within code and just have the electrician upgrade your current main ground.