I have looked at some of my design books with notes. I believe that going higher with the bypass cap from 50uf to even 100uf will not make much of a difference in the way the tube will function. If I go lower than 50uf, from what I can tell, this will start to effect the functioning of the 6L6 responses. I am still doing a little research on this before I actually purchase the parts but I agree that the 70uf would be okay but then again the 80uf would not make much of a difference. Going with the 80/40/30 will give me the exact capacitors I need for the 5Y3 power stage. Your thoughts. My guts was always that it would be okay but it has been a while since my courses in tube theory, like 1982.
Gut the current cans will not work, I tried the first one because I wanted to see if the gutting would be clean but it was not so if I went that way I would use some cans that I already have gutted.
I realize I can keep the caps for original look and install individual caps but I do not like the extra clutter. I am doing a total recap, using orange drops for most of the caps when I can and sliver mica for pf caps. From my vendor it will cost me $75 for the can caps I need and $42 for individual caps or a savings of $33. I know I could pocket the extra $33 since customer has already paid me for the restore but, when possible, I like to keep the original look with less clutter. My wife says I am thorough which is really being anal but we call it thorough being a better term for me. I really like your comments, you can never stop learning.