Is powerfull Amps only for low sensitivity speakes?


Dear Friends,
The general amp advice for the speakers 92+ db sensitivity speakers are mostly low power amps and mainly set or pp tube devices. I wonder if you have any experience with a setup of high sensitivity speaker with 100+ watt amplifier. 
My speaker is va sarastro 2 and at the moment driving it with accuphase a60 power amp. I've an opportunuty to buy Arc Gs150 amp with a good deal.
thanks for your comments
128x128obatu
Thanks for adding that. Some of the best recollections I have ever heard Wilson speakers has been with tubes. Brooks Berdan was a friend of mine and had me listen to the big X2 Wilsons on VTL monoblocks. The other system is OBGYN's system using all Lamm gear. To be honest I was close to buying your amps when I was running Martin Logan Odyssey electrostatic speakers. I was going to sell them and buy Soundlabs using your amps! I blame Brooks totally! ;)
My home studio speakers are 15" Tannoys with 97db efficiency.  Out of the 4 good amps I own, the best match is my 300w/ch Bryston 4B-SST2.  That's way overkill on power, but the noise floor is inaudible when using the balanced inputs, and tonally it is just the right match for the Tannoys.  
All I can add is personal recent experience with a 500 watt Magtech amp compared to a my 70 watt cj tube amp. I was worried the 500 watts would be too much for my 90dB efficient Spendor SP100 speakers, maybe even blow them out. What I should have worried about was having to return the Magtech!  By comparison, The cj sounded so muddy and hazy, especially in the lows. For many years, I thought the Spendor’s were slow and had difficulty with a lot of more upbeat music. Now I know it was my under powered tube amp. The extra watts gave a much more overall relaxed, detailed, rhythmically assured presentation. I guess there is some midrange glow that the cj adds, but now it is very clear that this  effect is distortion. 
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I’ve heard it said many times that you cannot have too much power, but under-powering speakers and causing the high transients to clip the signal can do damage to any speaker; therefore, it is good to have headroom for the speakers in which to have room to function and breath properly. Using a water analogy . . . the fire department wouldn’t use a garden hose to put out a large fire. Even if there was plenty of water pressure, the hose could not handle it and would probably burst, and even if the hose was strong enough to handle that water pressure (power), it would not have the diameter to produce the VOLUME of water necessary to do the job.  Having all that water pressure . . . the firemen are always prepared in any given situation to do the job; however, if the water source does not have the pressure -- no matter the associated equipment and controls, the firemen can open up their hoses at full throttle . . . and they will only get so much volume coming out, and the building will burn.  Simply put, the right tools/sources to do the right job will produce the desired results and without disappointment -- if used with the proper knowledge, skills, and wisdom.

In the case of the power amp(s) being expensive, there are some class D amplifiers, that have capabilities of taking on various efficient to inefficient speakers like from 2 ohms up to 8 ohms or more with no sweat. In fact, some do so with great sound and not a high end price . . . i.e. a Crown XLS 1502 is rated at: watts/side @ 8 ohms: 330W; watts/side @4 ohms: 525W; and at watt/side @ 2 ohms: 775W. So you see, there is plenty of headroom, and this amp has level limiters so that you can set the highest limit of the amplifier’s volume to match the volume control of your preamp or input device so that you will not blow out your speakers or your ears. They have one model that has less power . . . and two models with higher power, I believe, in the XLS model.

In any case, it is always nice to have options and at reasonable prices. I have relatively inefficient speakers running at approximately 8 ohms and rated for up to 200 watts of power, and this amplifier, which can also be bridged into even higher power, has absolutely no problem running these speakers. In fact, I use a DBX to control my sound system to tune it to the room and have control over the way the speakers sound, and have thought about turning my speakers into active speakers with the DBX acting as an electronic crossover and using Crown amps for each frequency band. Right now I have the Crown operating the main speakers and my old monoblocks B&Ks (250 watts each) running the subwoofers, and the blend is seemless as the levels between the two. can easily be controlled. It is always nice to have options and versatility . . . and the Crowns do give you exactly those options.