Is the KAB Fluid Damper worth it if...

07-06-08: Radioheadokplayer
johnny not sure how "less wobbly" isolation cones is better than the technics tt feet alone resting on vibrapods which in turn rest on a butcher block with again the vibrapod also resting underneath the butcher block.

Ditching the Technics TT feet for the brass cones was a big improvement. Before that I had Technics feet on the butcher block, or sometimes Technics feet on Vibrapods on the butcher block, but the brass cones straight onto the butcher block was noticeably better and exposed the music's inner detail for the first time.

I just added the washers and got another incremental improvement. I may try Vinylvin's method and increase the washer diameter to span the collars on the bottom of the turntable. My next step after this is to replace the Vibrapods under the butcher block with cork/rubber blocks.

I found a supplier for cork/rubber blocks in any number of sizes. An 18"x18" sheet is only about $32. I'm thinking of putting an entire layer of cork/rubber under the butcher block instead of 2"x2" blocks.

Since I noticed an improvement adding the washers to the brass cones, I suspect the much denser and heavier Mapleshade threaded Brass Heavyfeet would work even better. But they're $160/set, so I'm waiting on that, especially now that I'm upgrading to Mirage OMD-15 speakers and may be getting a high current amp and bi-wire to drive them.

In answer to Tvad's question, yes I level the turntable religiously. I started with the rack, which has three uprights and adjustable spikes at the bottom. I used a 12" carpenter's level, checking in 3 directions for each shelf before adding the one on top. Then when I put the turntable on the top shelf, I checked again. The Dayton cones are also adjustable, as the tips are threaded and can be adjusted relative to the body of the cone. I do try to avoid having to do that, and I was able to get the turntable level while keeping the brass cones screwed tightly together.

As an alternative, shimming the Vibrapods from below with playing cards or similar shouldn't affect the sound.

Alright so solving this issue... To make Daytons perform and correctly fit with the right platform..

First you need the fender washers.. But they need to be 2" diameter with a 1/4" center hole...

Now this will fit over the entire assembly pretty secure, However this does not hold them center nor tighten all the way...

SO 2 other things need to be done, one is making this process even simpler... You need M6 Threaded nuts, I forget if they are the 100 pitch or the .75 pitch threads on the daytons, I bought both and one set was correct the others were not.

You will take the M6 nut and simply pre-bolt the fender washer right to the dayton cone up front making it as one installed assembly before screwing it into the table..

First off these M6 nuts act as a Jam nut and hold the washer and cone solid so they don't un-screw or sway from the table now... Secondly these nuts fill the GAP exactly the height needed between the Technics threaded insert and the Molded feet edge touching the washer making the washer now be a solid steel Plate as if it was made right into the table.

However there is one small thing here.. SOME of the technics feet can be slightly drilled deeper than others from table to table it seems... And some of the original holes might be between 1/8th to 1/16" too SHALLOW drilled.

That means the Dayton Shafts that are the threaded portions could be TOO long to bottom out into the threaded inserts on the table meaning now you can not snug the new washer plate assembly totally tight and flat...

This is an easy fix, DO NOT DRILL THE TABLE!! But instead take a dremel tool with the small cutting wheel and simply ZIP off a 1/16 to a 1/8th" of each Dayton threaded stud making them slightly shorter, and now everything will be completly solid and stable as if it was made for the table and cost you about 27 cents per washer, about 7 cents per Nut.. And about 20 bucks for your spikes.

As for leveling,well this is easy now, because the daytons are 2 piece leveling spikes you can get about a half inch height variation out of the tips once you get everything installed solid and correct..

If your platform the table sits on is that bad in the first place that your table is not just a little bit off but way off, than you need take your Maple block or whatever its sitting on and install ANOTHER set of 3 dayton spikes (I suggest a 3 point spike system in this case due to stability, and ease of leveling)under that and then adjust leveling from the maple platform rather than the table feet, and you can fine adjust just about any ruff terrain with the combination of both sets... Which even a 3 spike system under the turntable would be better as well, however of course using the stock locations in this case is really the only option for all 4 feet.

Anyone compare just using mapleshade heavyfeet tt replace technics versus dayton+ butcher block versus kabusa isonoe feet $175 for four

07-07-08: Radioheadokplayer
Anyone compare just using mapleshade heavyfeet tt replace technics versus dayton+ butcher block versus kabusa isonoe feet $175 for four

So far some A'goners have gotten Threaded Heavyfeet, and at least one has gotten Isonoe Footers, but I don't think anyone so far has had or tried both.

It's something a lot of us are wondering.