Isolation Feet for Laptop

It seems fairly common knowledge that vibration is a form of distortion in many electric components, not just for turntables and speakers. Isolation feet seem to work well in most applications.

I searched around and I didn't find any information to suggest that folks are using isolation feet on laptops or desktops, despite increased streaming usage. In a great many cases, there are indeed heavy vibrations coming from within the computer.  Whether it is the fan for the CPU or even GPU to the all the various chips/transformers, etc or even power supplies and batteries. If adding isolation feet to a streamer, DAC or power supply makes sense, then wouldn't it also make sense to apply isolation feet to your laptop; if you use it for music?

Well, I am going to find out. :)

I ordered some IsoAcoustics Orea Series Audio Equipment Isolators with a max weight of 16 pounds. The laptop weighs about 6.7 pounds, so it shouldn't be that much strain, even with all the cables creating some measure of down force as they dangle over the edge.

My expectation is that the DAC will be able to perform slightly better due to reduced vibration across the USB port and power filter. The DAC is a USB stick (Dragonfly Cobalt) so it has a very rigid hard connection to the laptop; so vibration is very easily transferred.

Has anyone else tried this?



I won't argue that speakers will sound different from one than the other.  Nor will I argue that an expensive speaker won't sound better than a cheaper speaker.

What I will argue is that a cheaper speaker can't be made to sound good/better. Indeed, that seems to be the prevalent argument aimed at my setup, "You aren't allowed to have good sound quality because your speakers (equipment) aren't expensive enough."  Despite the fact that the back end for these speakers are collectively more expensive than most of the people's speakers on this forum.

It's quite simple.  I found a sound I liked, and I tweaked and amplified it.


I also am using IsoAcoustic Orea's to eliminate vibrations. The laptop is resting on a Mapleshade oak platform,with the Orea's supporting the platform. The sound improvement was noticeable right away.


Excellent, it's encouraging to know I am on the right track. :)

I am eagerly awaiting the Twonshend Air Platform.  Of what I have read, Isoacoustics and Townshend have very comparable results.

Well a few things to try if you want before you spend any money. First get three dice and put them under the laptop. Two in front one in back might work better the other way as the extra weight is likely on the back. Second get your maple cutting board out of the kitchen set the laptop on that listen how those sound. Personally I like my components on really dense hardwood with spikes on them. Rose wood and purple heart both have worked well for me. Hard maple is only part way there. I have a set of feet of silence audioquest footers heard black diamond racing cone s they all make a difference so you get to have some fun trying things. I am so jealous of those that cannot hear any differences In equipment isolation device s wires fuse etc. It has cost me a bunch of money over the years that would have paid for another rental home or two. 



I am reviving this dead thread with an update on some things and ask a electrical design question.

So, it turned out that the Tranquilty Basik came with "feet" designed to mitigate vibration.  It also turned out that the Twonshend Air Platform wouldn't fit where I wanted it to go and was now somewhat superfluous in the setup, so it went to my home theater setup.

Now, the Tranquility Basik did in fact alter the sound quality, but in a very minimal way, at first.  What it did impact significantly, was video. If you play movie files local to the system, they are silky smooth. No jitter or jerking. Then...came the problems.  the "tuning module" on the Tranquility base, was burning hot to the touch.  So much so that you would hurt yourself if you dared to touch it. It worked for about 8 months until the LED went completely dead. The brightness slowly dimmed overtime before it died.  I contacted Synergistic Research and they replaced the module with no charge.  They didn't comment on the temperature of the module. Once replaced, the benefits I had noticed returned, as did the fact that the module gets burning hot. Almost 8 months to the day since that replacement, I noticed the sound quality wasn't as crisp and the video performance wasn't as spectacular. I looked and sure enough, the LED was dead.  I figured I was long out of warranty and asked where I could buy another replacement and if there was an upgraded module I could get. The Rep said he'd get me an upgraded version at no charge and that the module SHOULD NOT GET HOT!!!  Good to know as generally speaking, it's never a good sign when an electric component gets burning hot. The replacement arrived and as soon as I plugged it in, the performance was no longer subtle. The audio was FAR better, with precise localization, perfect musical timing, and a higher level of clarity. The video performance was only slightly better than before. was cold.  It didn't get hot at all. So, this got me wondering.  Just what in the world does this module do?  It's such a small thing.  I decided to take one of the dead ones and crack it open.  What I found has confounded me. I want it explained; if possible.

SO....the tuning module was nothing more than two wirewound, audio specific, VISHAY DALE resistors attached to an LED. They are crammed into the shell and then sealed in with some form of clay.  Resistors shouldn't get hot. My guess is, the way these are crammed in, the posts were touching and possibly arcing. So it wasn't properly performing whatever it was meant to.  BUT...that's the question.  What was it doing?  How does two resistors attached to an LED "tune" an electric signal?  It made a difference, but I can't explain how. Consider how the Tranquility pad works, the resistors aren't inline with anything that directly impacts an audio signal.  Meaning, the internal electric signal being processed for audio isn't directly inline.  It's external. The resistors impact a signal that is being used to externally affect components that generate and handle audio. It's weird.