JL Audio CR-1 Crossover


So, I own 4 JL Audio F-113 subs. Each of these were bought used and all have been updated at JL Audio.

I have been very happy using them in my system. The main speakers are Focal Sopra 2’s. I am using a Iso-Max Jensen transformer(s) model #SP-2SX to connect the subs to my mains and it seems to work pretty well. BTW, the Iso Max unit(s) convert speaker level to balanced (similar to the Rel subs) using Speak-On fittings.

The JL Audio solution to the high/low band pass issue was their CR-1 Electronic crossover. I always wanted to try one of these but at $3000 list I didn’t think it could improve that much over my Iso Max unit(s).

However, I was able to find a used JL Audio CR-1 electronic crossover and I have just now connected it up.

The first thing I noticed was how much very low bass I was missing. Example: Linda Ronstadt “Blue Bayou” the bass now digs into the subterranean.

I guess I need to play with it a while. but I was wonderin’ if anyone else who owns or has owned this unit can share any set ups tips and general opinions of the unit.

ozzy

128x128ozzy

Ozzy, I could put it in front of my Cary sli-80, but that would accommodate only one input; either my cd player or my 'table.

Or I could first put my two sources into a passive preamp, then that pre into the CR-1, then split into the Cary and the subs.

It gets complicated and adds more to the signal path. Discouraging.

Anyway, I don't mean to rain on your parade. Enjoy!

I replaced a pair of RELs (using high level input from the amp) with a pair of fathoms with a CR1. This was to correct a 60Hz room mode on the vertical axis generated by the main speakers.  There are measurements pics of this on my system page. The CR1 has a button to switch on/off the crossover circuitry, so A/B is easy. In my case bass extension is a little less and the blurriness around 60Hz reappears with the subs and crossover circuity off. The promise of decreased upper frequency distortion was not materialized in my case, although the coherence between the woofer and the "midrange/tweeter" improved. I have just used factory settings at 80Hz which seems like an obvious choice based on my problem. Playing the damping only made it wound worse. I am still experiemnting with placement/DARO a little bit as well as phase. It seems damping would be normal last step. As a side I find DARO pretty havey handed through its band, making "good enough" placement idiot proof. I am still working through it, though.  

gita, Perhaps contact JL Audio for suggestions?

ohlala, If this helps:

I started with my subs close to the back corners, then I used the DARO. After that I tried to blend their output with my main speakers. Then I used the CR-1 to blend everything together.

But, I too am still experimenting with all the other settings. I can say though that just 2 days with the CR-1 and I am pretty happy with the bass intergration.

BTW, I also have 4-ASC 20" tube traps in all 4 corners.

ozzy

I had help from acoustic frontiers in sub/speaker relocation to smooth out bass. I have at least a hundred REW measurement from this misadventure. The subs ended up near opposite corners of the room, which flattened all but the 60Hz. Elevating them half way up the wall helped partially, and the crossover eliminated it. With the fathoms, I now have a 20 Hz issue, below what DARO controls. I pulled one sub out in the room as far as resonable to flatten it, but created a massive 34Hz issue that daro amazingly corrected. I did waterfall overlay between the two radically different positions, and there was not much difference even in decay time. I could not really hear a difference either. I may try moving one sub to the corner, so the pair are symmetric to see what happens. 

Like you suggest, I also EQ’d it then adjusted levels, which is easy. The LF trim control’s bandwidth is too broad, so of course volume has to be adjusted. Unfortunately I do not know how to use stereo with separate phase controls and use DARO at the same time. Are you using master/salve configuration?

ohlala,

Thanks for that info.

With my 4 F-113’s I am using left-right stereo configuration and then connected the same L-R to the rear subs. With all set as Master. This allows the ability to set the DARO individually.

ozzy