Klipsch Cornwall IV

Thanks so much Ozzy!
I was curious to know if it was a larger horn than the one on my Epics. As it turns out, the size is the same, although I realize that the throat design on the new Cornwalls is much more advanced. 

The PathAudio resistors have been ordered.  I'm close to pulling the trigger with Chris at VCap.  

I've damped the high, mid and bass ports. I've managed to use my existing Auralex Subdude II isolation pads under them--they actually fit even though measurements are deceiving.  The Klipsch platform is underneath and narrows the dimensions by ~1.5" each way so the Auralex work.  

I think with the VCaps and Paths, plus this other stuff, I'm closing in on Volti's clarity and beauty.  The CWalls already sound better. 

By the way,  I know some may disagree, but from a subjective perspective I think VCap and ClarityCap make superbly fine caps.

Crossovers:
I've now completed the crossover upgrade, including all caps to VCap (with exception of that 60uF linked to the woofer output) and Path Audio resistors.

Dampening:  I've also damped the tweeter, midhorn, and bass ports.  After knocking on the speakers and testing vibration, it seems Klipsch could've added some mass internally too, but since I'm not an expert I didn't want to fuss with that too much.  That said, I did put Dynamat on the internal floor of each unit. That area was ever-so resonant.  I could easily tell that the bass firmed up after placing Dynamat on the floor of each unit, as my REL subwoofers had to be readjusted. 

Sound:  Don is right--it doesn't take long to hear the improvement.  Let's see after 100 hours or so.  

Finally, a couple of notes. 

--Binding post Setup.  These are just silly.  They are fussy, inexpensive, and my Wharfedale Lintons ($1500 with stands) have way better posts. Why Klipsch? Why?  This is a $6k speaker.  I don't believe you really need to go all out here, but quality is key to a good fit and to them holding up.   I actually broke one of the bolt-posts when reattaching a nut, and I was tightening them just past hand tightened.  Terrible. So, I'm going to update the binding posts next. I really didn't want to do more, but these are just silly toys they used.  

--Crossover Tips.  As Don had indicated, you need to ensure the VCap ODAM bodies don't touch anything conductive as they are conducive too.  I started by applying high grade silicone tape (electricians use this to cover high amperage lines).  However, I got a bit nervous about anything touching so I tore it off and started over by wrapping each and every capacitor;  peace of mind.  I was more concerned about this than gluing caps and resistors down, as I have tight welds on the leads.  

--Patience.  Patience is a virtue here; none of this was difficult. Going slow will reward you.  Don't do it if you're tired, moody, hung over, having a bad day, etc.  

I'm seeing caps, resistors, dampening and binding posts as all being substantial upgrades (with the first 3 affecting sound).  Klipsch should make a signature version at $8k.  Now, I think that I see what is the difference between Klipsch and Volti. 

One more thing--  The crossover PCB is very high quality.  Huge traces, thick board, giant through holes.  

You will be shocked-and I do not use that term lightly- by the improvement you will have by adding an external DAC like an Ares.
You may even find you can spend some time back with your CDs.
Try some XRCDs by JVC. Best sound I've found on digital.