Maestro vs. Furutech GTX-D Gold AC Outlets

My speakers are DIY using Eton metal dome mids and tweeters. Surprisingly, the top end, while quite extended, never draws attention to itself and can be very delicate when the source materials allows it. The mids, however, are another matter. The are always highly detailed but can get aggressive with the wrong components/accessories/recordings. So, when I refer to sibilance and brightness, it is within the upper midrange.

I found the R1 to do a decent job of taming glare in the upper midrange. The GX emphasized it. I wouldn't say the R1 has much bloom but it does have image and tonal density making the Porter Port sound a bit thin. The Maestro may have only slightly less density but is so much more transparent that I could never live with the R1.

I've been buying wire for awhile, swapping out various plugs, trying to get the most detail while minimizing that upper midrange glare, and think I've found about the best solution. The "Mundorf Germany ISWG110 Silver/Gold 1mm wire", listed on Ebay from Taiwan, with an IeGO 8095 male plug as well as an Oyaide 046 female plug makes a highly detailed power cord that is extended on top, slightly warm, has decays that go on and on, and just nails the ambiance of the recording venue. I made power cords using 3 runs and 4 runs per pole and twisted them around each other (rather than trying to braid them) and then ran a simple thin wire counter-clockwise for the ground. I put the one with 4 runs per pole on my PS Audio P600 (with Maestro outlets) and used the 3 runs per pole on either my amp or my cdp and used a Wolff BOHICA on the other component. The sound was smoother than I've ever heard my system while the detail was about as good as it's ever been. Win/win right? Not quite, unfortunately. With two of these cords in the system, the specificity of images was compromised a bit. I'm not saying the images were indistinct. They just weren't as vivid as I like. So, I keep the 4 runs per pole cord on the PS Audio P600 and I have zero issues with sibilance. The soundstage is vast and just engulfs you and I'm always pleased with the level of inner detail that makes the music alive and captivating. Of course, I'm ever the audiophile so I'll surely try something else sooner or later but really, the power cord I've described has satisfied me like no other, at least with regards to the speakers I own. If I were more a business-man, I'd build and sell these. They kill most cords I've tried and I've had numerous power cords over the years. I hope this is of use to you. Thanks for looking.

I use the Furutech GTX receptacle on a dedicated 20 amp line for my two mono Acoustat tube power amps.

It is really well made and holds the Annaconda power cords like a vice.

I have experience with hospital grade Hubbels, Shunyata cryod receptacles and FIM receptacles.
I prefer the Furutech.

It's pricey but worth it in my estimation.

If you can, try dedicated lines for your electronics
then top them off with upgraded receptacles.

I think you will be impressed with the results when you start to upgrade all the things that bring power to your gear.

I was,and it made me realize that constantly swapping out components wasn't really the best way to approach this hobby.

Getting the most out of what you have by paying attention to the power delivery can be very rewarding.

I agree with Lacee.

I have,in-house, right this very minute, Synergistic Research Tesla Plex, Tesla Plex SE, Oyaide R1, PS Audio Power Port and Power Port Premier, FIM and FIM Gold, Maestro and the Furutech GTX-D (Gold, although I wanted Rhodium).

The Furutech is so far ahead of ANY of the others, there can be no disputing the differences. The grain is akin to that of the Hurricane amps, which is to say: Zero. The dynamic range soft to loud)and contrast (tiny inflections) surpasses the Synergistic - which I bought only 6 weeks ago. The Furutech has 16 hours on it so far.
The first 10 minutes, I couldn't tell. But 3 hours later, I could, and in a BIG way. Got up today and listened to it 20 minutes ago, with the amps not even warmed up, as I wanted to hear what it sounded like from a cold start, and whether or not the system being warmed up would hide what it sounded like last night with the system warmed up and 3 hours on it.
It was so obviously better, even cold, I just blinked and muttered, "Wow."
I've had audiophile ac receptacles since 2003, so I'm not new to this, just as I had tube traps back in 1988, dedicated lines in 1989. I've done EVERYthing that could be done to make it sound better (including something most people scoff at: keeping the speaker cable off the carpet, which I demonstrated made a difference back in 1995, at the publisher of Fi Magazine's home, with Dick Bel, Tom Miiler, Sally Reynold (TAS' former Executive Editor) and a few other VIPS). It works, and if you're not doing it - or you don't hear it, I don't know what's wrong with your ears. Every speaker cable I've had, which includes: Nordost Valhalla, Transparent Audio Ultra (from 1993), then the Transparent Reference, MIT, Shunyata Andromeda (Constellation Series)and a few more. How someone cannot hear the difference with interconnects and speaker cable off the carpet is beyond me. Enid Lumley knew what she was talking about. (People just lift it off the carpet without understanding their cable will take time to settle. Wait 4 hours and THEN listen to it.)
Back to the subject at hand: if I can determine a way to put the Furutech in my PS Audio Power Plant, it's going in there, too!
Unquestionably, THE BEST. BAR NONE.

Here's a bit of an update.
I have now placed the Furutech at the end of an ordinary line,not a dedicated one, and the wiring is 14 guage romex standard house wire,into a standard wall fixture.

What I can now add is that even if you can't run a dedicated line from a 20 amp breaker and use 10 guage wire,you can still improve your sound if you use the Furutech GTX receptacle.

just received my Rhodium receptacle. It is unquestionably "crisper"-sounding than the gold, by which I mean transients 'pop' more 0-to-60 than the gold and the overall sound is less 'warm,' but only slightly. I have this on the front end, where I previously had the Gold, and I prefer it. Given that I had a CJ Classic SE as well as an ET3 as the preamps, it's pretty obvious that the Rhodium suits me better. I'm getting another Rhodium for the amp outlet (dedicated). I had considered keeping the gold, but I don't need warmth in my system, unless it comes from the recording. I prefer hearing the ambience of the acoustic environment, as well as the timbre of instruments, along with whatever fullness/body I hear in them in real life. So, back goes the Gold for another rhodium.