Magnepan 1.7 too bright, HELP

FYI, I lived with Maggies for many many years. About a dozen different amps; ss and tube. Used the Maggies in stock form and heavily modifed to their limits. Having said all that I am inclined to agree with Madactexas; the amp is probably the issue. However, everyone (specially you; obviously) has left out a key part of the equation: WHAT WERE THE SPEAKERS THAT YOU USED PRIOR TO THE MAGGIES, THAT (PRESUMABLY) WERE NOT TOO BRIGHT FOR YOU? Answer that question, and the advice will have some significance, instead of everyone stabbing in the dark. "Brightness" is a difficult thing to describe to someone else. I have often heard equipment described as "bright" when I would describe it as thin or harsh; and definitely not "bright". Very different things. Having said all that, I have a strong suspicion that if you stick with these speakers (I would), you will ultimately find that a decent tube amp is what will make you happy.

GREAT question! What WERE the last set of speakers!? I Hadn't thought of that!

Have you flipped 'em around yet? That tamed mine. And Yes, I'm a magnepan veteran. Close to 30 years now, but only a few amps. I've never been an equipment swapper and simply don't have the deep pockets it would take to do extensive experiments.

I'd like to hear what Frogman thinks 'modded to limits' means.

If you've been around panels a long time, you know they swapped sides sometime in the '90s....this to me, made 'em brighter sounding.

Great advice here. I offer a small addition. I had a similar issue with my Mirage OMD-28s, and solved it by spending less than $200 on a Grant Fidelity Tube Buffer. I run it between my DAC and Preamp. It gives you some of that tube warmth and dynamic nature for a tiny investment. Worth a try, as its cheap and easy to resell if you don't like it.

Also, get the book 'Get Better Sound', as your room is uber important in sound quality. Good luck.

Mot

Magfan, my MGIIIA's were "modded to their limit" with:

-replacement of all xover components with Solen air-core inductor coils (Litz for the ribbon and midrange), and bypassed MIT capacitors..
-everything outboard in a well dampened wood box, with attention paid to the placement and orientation of the coils for minimum interference.
-all wiring was Siltech pure silver, completely hardwired. Not a single mechanical connection after the amplifiers' (Manley) binding posts.
-fuses bypassed (living dangerously)
-custom stand/frame for rigidity
-removal of the speakers' socks
-Harmonix Tuning Dots

I am sure some would not consider MIT caps to be "the limit", but very good nonetheless.

Good mods. I'd do it a little different...not necessarily better, but different.

Just 2 examples::
I won't use a rigid, mechanical, bridgework style stand for my panels. Living, breating wood is where I'll head, and as light and rigid as I can design. Minimum metal. I'm designing them in Google Sketchup for construction in a wood working class.

Inductors? Since my 1.6s have only ONE, I'll wind it myself using simple 14ga wire and a form made from standard PVC sizes. My design has the same number of layers as turns per layer, so the coil itself is square in cross section and the entire coil is just over 4" in diameter.

Capacitors? The worlds SECOND largest can of worms! Followed, perhaps, only by the 'bypass or NOT' discussion. I don't have deep pockets and may have to compromise with a cap from the Clarity line....SA, maybe. The stock Solen caps are good value, but easily bested.

#1 priority? Enjoy.