Before you do anything, you might want to look at the Fine Woodworking website for additional advice. All of the above advice indicates there's a long steep learning curve to finishing maple, especially hard maple. Even if you use what's referred to as a Sanding Sealer to even out the effects of stain, with end grain you still might end up with a checker board effect. If you want black, I've found that it's best to first use a black dye that's made by Behlen Solor Lux, and then spray coat it with a semi or gloss spray.
Michigan Maple Block Query
I am considering a Michigan Maple Block AJA02015 audio platform/cutting board, 18" x 18" x 3 1/2", to replace a shelf in my audio rack for supporting a DAC. The thickness also ideally raises the height of the DAC in the rack. My concern is that it is unsealed maple. Preferably, I would like it black or, minimally, sealed in some way, because the shade of the maple is something I can live with. I am looking for suggestions regarding this. Should I be concerned if left unsealed for this application or not? Thanks in advance.
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This is an old thread, but because it led me to try this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040E0Q1U/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_6 I am responding to it. I installed this block on top of what are probably mapleshade isoblocks (I've had them for years; forgot their source). The result is: tighter bas, more detail, better delineation of instruments--all effects plausibly tied to reduce vibrations. The a/b was brief--too much hassle to repeat it, but I am happy. TT is a clearaudio champion. |
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