Award of Merit : McMaster-Carr returned my broken part with a one line hand written notice "returned" bla, bla. Thanks for ALL your help. You know how to keep da US Of A on Top! Next UP,
"Gong On Down the Line" ..... The Return of Ari :
As I attempt to source an air barb, Robb of Fine Finishes telephoned . He said he's removing all(ie, my crappy)spray paint(far too soft a finish in his opinion) and is duplicating the color palette in lacquer. Robb will give the entire project a profession touch. Robb is to apply lacquer via a spray booth, to be followed by coats of clear coat that is to be hand-buffed between coats . The platter is to be finished in a gloss black, all other top parts in mauve(ish) color paint . The Counterweight Arm, Bearing Spindel and Tone-Arm are to stay anodized black ; the VTA adjust & "L" bracket to the counterweight in mauve(ish) , the VTA adjust crew in stainless: A custom made part that allows more refinement to adjusting the VTA. All unused openings on the table top & sides are to be filled with curved-top red-oak plugs : The off-sided triangle cut-out , now filled filled with Roma , once housed the Hurst motor. That opening is to be coverered with red-oak trim to be attached using small brass screws set into the Roma underneath. Counterweights are to be solid brass (when sourced).
The TT Motor is to sit on a red-oak platform that affixes off-angle to Ari's right front corner. The platform looks like an inverted "Z" is attached via extending the red-oak plank of the "Z" that covers the existing right front opening the adjusting spike once used. Single sided 3M absorber tape affixed to the oak acts as a interface between the "Z" and the table side to dampened any platform vibes. The whole sub-unit is affixed via a brass bolt & washer, thru a hole drilled into the "Z" that will axcess to re-use the adjuster hole to affix the sub-unit to the Ari's plinth.
All orgininal screws & supports are to be reused. A toothpick is to apply Permatex , 83H , # 80057, Super "300", gasket sealant as a dampner to threaded parts. Far more effective that super-glue and far less hassel when time to be removed. Just a dab will do ya.
Dare I mention this ? I might consider a lacquer clear mixed with ? color sprayed to be over the white plastic plinth(maybe).
I will begin to dampen some interfaces where ,in my opinion, un- wanted vibration(s)could/do occurr. Currently, I am testing materals. Should any reader have auditioned/owned a Beard Amp than you recall that most unique of audio voicing. Partly, that signature audio palette is the result of paper dampters placed on/under certian boards to dampen micro-vibrations. That practice is not lost on me and I will attempt to duplicate that idea via the table's tone/adjust as to some parts/places I choose for that select application.
So far, besides paint, everything I have done can be reversed ,as in removed, without damage to the table.
More areas to be addressed. The RCA jack opening is no longer in use now that I now run 32 Ga. Cardas TT wire from the phono pins to the Pre-Amp (27"). This opening is to be covered/shielded via stainless steel tape ,as will be the back of the RCA/Terminal plate to deter RFI. The roof of the RCA opening has already been dampened with Roma. While I await Pidepiper's assistance , several mods for the stock 7" tone-arm. Lots mo' later.
"Gong On Down the Line" ..... The Return of Ari :
As I attempt to source an air barb, Robb of Fine Finishes telephoned . He said he's removing all(ie, my crappy)spray paint(far too soft a finish in his opinion) and is duplicating the color palette in lacquer. Robb will give the entire project a profession touch. Robb is to apply lacquer via a spray booth, to be followed by coats of clear coat that is to be hand-buffed between coats . The platter is to be finished in a gloss black, all other top parts in mauve(ish) color paint . The Counterweight Arm, Bearing Spindel and Tone-Arm are to stay anodized black ; the VTA adjust & "L" bracket to the counterweight in mauve(ish) , the VTA adjust crew in stainless: A custom made part that allows more refinement to adjusting the VTA. All unused openings on the table top & sides are to be filled with curved-top red-oak plugs : The off-sided triangle cut-out , now filled filled with Roma , once housed the Hurst motor. That opening is to be coverered with red-oak trim to be attached using small brass screws set into the Roma underneath. Counterweights are to be solid brass (when sourced).
The TT Motor is to sit on a red-oak platform that affixes off-angle to Ari's right front corner. The platform looks like an inverted "Z" is attached via extending the red-oak plank of the "Z" that covers the existing right front opening the adjusting spike once used. Single sided 3M absorber tape affixed to the oak acts as a interface between the "Z" and the table side to dampened any platform vibes. The whole sub-unit is affixed via a brass bolt & washer, thru a hole drilled into the "Z" that will axcess to re-use the adjuster hole to affix the sub-unit to the Ari's plinth.
All orgininal screws & supports are to be reused. A toothpick is to apply Permatex , 83H , # 80057, Super "300", gasket sealant as a dampner to threaded parts. Far more effective that super-glue and far less hassel when time to be removed. Just a dab will do ya.
Dare I mention this ? I might consider a lacquer clear mixed with ? color sprayed to be over the white plastic plinth(maybe).
I will begin to dampen some interfaces where ,in my opinion, un- wanted vibration(s)could/do occurr. Currently, I am testing materals. Should any reader have auditioned/owned a Beard Amp than you recall that most unique of audio voicing. Partly, that signature audio palette is the result of paper dampters placed on/under certian boards to dampen micro-vibrations. That practice is not lost on me and I will attempt to duplicate that idea via the table's tone/adjust as to some parts/places I choose for that select application.
So far, besides paint, everything I have done can be reversed ,as in removed, without damage to the table.
More areas to be addressed. The RCA jack opening is no longer in use now that I now run 32 Ga. Cardas TT wire from the phono pins to the Pre-Amp (27"). This opening is to be covered/shielded via stainless steel tape ,as will be the back of the RCA/Terminal plate to deter RFI. The roof of the RCA opening has already been dampened with Roma. While I await Pidepiper's assistance , several mods for the stock 7" tone-arm. Lots mo' later.