No one actually knows how to lculate what speaker cable they need

Let me examine one statement made before by b4icu:

The DF is actually the way the Amp. is getting control over the speaker's coil. A coil, especially a moving one in a magnetic field, generates an electric current that is equal to the one made it move, but in the opposite direction. It is called the "Lentz" law.
Speaker cables are in a way two resistors (Rc) that connect the power Amp. to the speaker. Why two? becuse the cables go to the speaker (red) and goes back (black) to the amplifier.
As so, the speaker's impedace has no significance in this electrical circuit.

 Of course it has big significance.  Speaker's resistive impedance (equal to about 2/3 of nominal impedance) is in the circuit.  The whole idea of damping comes from the fact that voltage created on the speaker terminals (known as the "Back EMF"), by the motion of the coil in magnetic field, produces current (flowing thru speaker) that causes opposite membrane motion effectively stopping the membrane.  This current flows from one speaker's terminal thru speaker wire, amplifier's output, another speaker wire, another terminal and the coil.  Changing resistance in the circuit from 0.1ohm to 0.001ohm means change in total circuit resistance from about 6.1ohm to 6.001ohm (for 8 ohm speaker) resulting in very small change in the "braking" current.  

I don't know why do they make very thick cables.  Perhaps to reduce inductance (straight wire inductance is slightly lower for thicker wires), but this would not make sense since the same can be achieved by better twisting of thinner wires (that reduces inductance and increases capacitance).    One possible reason can be skin effect, that starts at gauge 18 (20kHz, copper).  I'm not sure if it is audible, but remember Audioquest FAQ.  Stranding wires even with isolated strands won't help since wires are still in magnetic field of each other.  Placing wires in helical twist on hollow tube serves two purposes.  It subjects strands mostly to magnetic fields of neighboring wires only and provides twist.  This twist not only reduces wire inductance but also provides immunity to external electric and magnetic fields.  Since each of perhaps 20 or so strands has decent gauge (for the ease of working with) it makes overall gauge much lower.  That's how my Acoustic Zen Satori is constructed.

One observation  - amplifier's output has very low impedance for low frequencies only.   High frequency electrical noise induced in the cable is injected into the output of the amp and amplified by the amp because of negative feedback.

As for cable directionality - yes, AC charge flows forth and back but energy to speaker is delivered one direction only, on the outside of the cable where other factors (including insulation) might play role.  Again, I don't know if direction is audible or not - but it is much more complicated than it seems.

Mr. khiak

You have been ignoring my two requests:

a.     To share your impression about the sound with your new DIY cable.

b.     Fill in the data missing on the excel table.

Please do.

Your approach regarding the equation of the amp-speaker circuit, with the speaker cables in between is wrong! If you would isolate (as you did) the DF from the circuit, and use optimal cables (0.0000 Ohms), it still not the 8 or 6 ohms of the speaker impedance, vs. the DF resistance value.

DF is provided by the standard, in an 8 ohms load (no matter what is your speaker's actual impedance!) and at 1 KHz. Some brands would extend that data into higher Fr.

However 1 KHz is not a low frequency at all.

Directionality: What directionality in AC where the wave is symmetrical both ways?

Skin effect: When you look at the AWG table, you see that the data provided is regarding the top Fr. That a cable can still pass it's full power. A 4-0 gauge cable is way thicker than an audio system needs to pass through its full power. At the playing power (even at peak) the 4-0 gauge cables still pass more than sufficient at 20kHz.  

I’m the UK guy. Geoff’s right, the cable I replaced with the custom 0AWG cables aren’t “high end” (van damme blue). I read the review of them, and it’s not great. I’ve also given my reasons for choosing them.

My personal dilemma with this whole thing was whether I think speaker cables matter at all. If they don’t, then what cable I choose doesn’t matter so the van dame blue or the 0AWG should be the same. If they do then it’s a gamble as to whether they’re an upgrade or not. Lots of variables. The 0AWG sounded better, but that could have been for lots of reasons: oxidation, the cable, or just the matter of re-seating them.

Anyway, to test, ive bought myself a length of kimber 12TC cable. Hopefully we can agree that cable is closer to “high end” and that my “mid-high end” system, as I’m guessing some would call it
would reveal the differences? I would hope so.

Mr. Dill

Big misunderstanding.

1.       You link an article not a spec on a wire.

2.       Why do you need me to read a long (endless) document that has nothing, but absolutely nothing to this thread? After 220 posts you still do not understand a thing!

3.       Even if you would bring one spec., it is nothing in that big pile of others who has no data at all.

4.       For the sake of this thread, try to post things on subject and not off subject. Thanks.

Mr. conradnash

Good luck with the kimber 12TC cable. Let us know what your verdict is.

Even with a mid end system, before you lay down your equipment, it needs a proper room and some excellent sources (recordings). Are you sure you have that as a start?