Nude Turntable Project

The TT-71 in the QL7 or QL-7A uses the same motor as the TT-81, except less sophisticated electronics. It's a good performer and I used to own several of them. I sold them all after comparing to other models with coreless motors such as QL-Y66F or QL-Y7, just not as smooth sounding but still very respectable and I much prefer that over any mid-priced Technics. The tonearm is underrated. Have fun with it, since you didn't pay much for it. Experiment away!

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Thanks, HiHo,
Your thoughts and this thread as a whole has really motivated me to revive this table.
I fixed the tonearm weight today and will solder a broken wire tonight.

Long Live Analog!

I have made the move to a fully nude TT with DIY arm-pod, from a semi-nude version and so am resurrecting this excellent thread.

Previously, I had my JVC TT-101 turntable supported on sorbothane feet - independent of the plinth, but still sitting in the plinth's cut-out. The tone-arms were mounted to the plinth, which therefore served as a large arm-board.

You can see my previous set-up here: http://s1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/Garya1/Dual%20Tone-Arms%20Dec%202011/

Now I have eliminated the plinth completely and support the turntable on three brass points. The single tone-arm is mounted on a Micro-Seiki copper-alloy armboard which is in turn mounted to 1/2 of a 20lb dumbbell. Both the TT and the pod sit on separate parts of a large sheet of granite.

And here is what it looks like now: http://s1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/Garya1/Nude%20Turntable%20and%20DIY%20Arm%20Pod/

In addition to cutting one end off the dumbbell (close to one end)I had to increase the diameter of the shaft to 1.17 inches from 1.13 inches to properly mount the MS AX-6g arm-board. This was done using 4 layers of aluminum tape (used for hvac ductwork). I also sanded the bottom (rubber coating) flat. All together the pod weighs about 15 pounds. I wanted a heavier dumbbell but the shaft diameter was too large for some and the base was rounded on others. The total cost of the arm-pod was $285 of which $250 was for the arm-board.

I used double stick tape to secure the pod and the TT to the granite to maintain geometry.

Sound-wise the noise-floor dropped noticeably which sharpened the leading edges of the notes and made it desirable to raise the volume while listening. My wife pro-claimed this to be a marked improvement (unusual for her). I find it to be far more revealing, which is good for good lp's and bad for mediocre ones.

I would highly encourage anyone interested in doing this to pursue it. An easy and rewarding change.

Hi Aigenga,
Thanks for posting those pictures which were illuminating.
As your set-up is now nearly identical to mine......it would be interesting to compare some differences?
Firstly.....is the base for the turntable/armboard mounted on a floor stand or off a wall shelf?
Secondly....I can understand why you elected to use the Micro Seiki armboard and then had to attach it to your 'pod'......but to me, there a few compromises in that set-up which you may be able to change to see if you can detect any differences?
The cantilever affect of the Micro armboard will inevitably increase any vibrations /movements over a 'directly' located arm to armpod by a factor of eight or even more depending on the length of cantilever.
Secondly.....my armpods are mounted on 'spikes' whilst yours are 'attached' with double-sided tape?
I know that Chris......who has also 'nuded' his SP10MkII.......initially had his on sorbothane feet until cleverly achieving stainless steel spiked legs.
As you similarly have done......perhaps there might be a difference with spiked armpods over 'attached' armpods?
What do you think?

Halcro,
Yes, I agree that a cantilever will magnify vibration and it is a new thought for me. Micro Seiki and many other manufacturers have used this approach for decades and this MS arm board is made out of a very heavy copper alloy that will dampen the 'diving board' effect considerably. So perhaps it isn't that much of a problem?

The double-stick tape is mostly for holding geometry on a very slippery surface. I could put the base of the pod on 'tip-toes' and use tape under the cups like I did under the turntable.

I have designed another pod made from heavy stainless steel that I will show once I've got it together - 3 weeks or so. It will be a straight vertical design so I will have another data point.

Last night I put two heavy rubber straps around the lower portion of the table - pictures soon (maybe before you read this). It was a worthwhile change as I noted a loss of 'cupped hands' coloration.

I also want to mention that I have changed the mat. It is now a 1lb lead mat from Merrill glued to the bottom of a thick Achromat. Best I've heard.

Gary