2. speakers
  3. 1403935250

REL Magic

I have to report this finding as a breakthrough to a new plateau. For the past four years, I have been running two REL Strata III's, one behind each Maggie 3.6R. RELs have always been known for their hook up at the speaker outputs. By this method of integration, REL boasts that their subs somehow lift the entire system. I have always felt this to be true, especially with one for each amp.
But now, I have just completed DIY signal cables for each sub using the same Neutrik connectors into the subs. I used some 16-gauge OCC copper wire by Furutech in the same terminal scheme as the stock cords. As expected, the bass notes are more extended and better defined, but this phenomenon of improving the whole presentation has also appeared again as even more impressive. Everything across the soundscape is just a bit more sweet and clear. If you have not upgraded your REL signal cables, please do.
128x128jafreeman
jafant's avatar
jafant
19,733 posts
 
Thanks! for sharing Jafreeman. I concur that REL is the best sub out there. Excellent build quality, outstanding sound and very easy to massage into anyone's system. Happy Listening!
pakito
3 posts
 
Hello there

I'd like to try the SR20 fuses on my REL B1, you mean the fuse 5 Amperes but there are two others on the main map n I have also replaced for best results, or should I replace only one of 5 amperes?

Can someone please help me
nmmusicman
276 posts
 
"I'd like to try the SR20 fuses on my REL B1, you mean the fuse 5 Amperes but there are two others on the main map n I have also replaced for best results, or should I replace only one of 5 amperes?"

Hi Pakito, for ultimate performance gains one should replace all 3 fuses but beware that removing the amp/interface from the enclosure to get to the two internal fuses might void your warranty if in the highly unlikely event something should go wrong.

I believe the B1 has two internal 5 amp slo-blo fuses for each power supply rail and a 6.3 amp slo-blo fuse in the IEC inlet but you will have to pull them to be absolutely sure. I would also suggest bumping the amperage rating by a small amount with the new fuses. For example, I would go with 7 amp slo-blo for the IEC inlet and 6 amp slo-blo for the internal fuses.

If you're not comfortable opening the unit to get to the two internal fuses, just changing the IEC fuse gives a nice bump in performance.

Hope this helps.
pakito
3 posts
 
Hello Nmmusicman ,

Thank you very much for your help!

Personally, I opted for the fuse Quamtum RED instead of SR20! I noticed that by reversing the direction of the fuse holder, it has an impact on the final result, I tested the fuse dands 2 directions and chose the direction that offers a quality of the bass faster and defined! there is a meaning to install the fuse! then I suggest you try this if you have done it again!

Next step will be the cable REL BASSLINE BLUE and better cable Power Supplies!

Please tell me, what interest to replace the main fuse 5 Amps by one of those 7 and 6.3A on the main board replaced with 6 Amp?

Thanks again for your help!
nmmusicman
276 posts
 
Hi Pakito,

Yes fuse directionality should be explored by everyone who has taken the time to upgrade their fuses and with high resolution fuses even more so.

The reason I bump my fuse ratings up slightly is that since most high end fuses are on the costly side, as compared to generic hardware store glass fuses, I want to increase the headroom margin so as not to risk blowing a fuse in the event that the circuit designer chose to be on the conservative side of current protection and to also provide circuit protection in the event that a circuit malfunction does occur.

Hope this helps.
More to discover