Semi: the thought of other manufacturer's speakers did cross my mind... I'm sure you are right, unfortunately.
I can tell you that some cheaper speakers seem to have better components. I once opened Infinity speakers from 1981 and they had much better crossover caps! Surprise surprise...
Tboooe: Unfotunately we did not take pics of the work in stages. There is no magic to it. You remove the 12 screws on the backplate, then the woofer screws. You'll need some tool to screw into the screw holes of each driver to extract it and if force doesn't work - then apply more force... ;-)
Then you push the backplate out. That gives you access to the crossover. You need a real short screwdriver to remove the boards and you'll be working without seeing a thing...
Next you'll extract the mid and tweeter. Repeat the brute force procedure and be careful with sharp tools in front of the drivers.
Once the drivers are all out (un-clip wires, of course) you can pull all wires out. The top drivers' wires are sealed with a rubbery material going thgrough the seperate top cabinet's bottom wall. Perhaps you can use disposable gloves to avoid a mess around that stuff and also to extract the wires (that stuff is sticky!). My advice is to seal it later with the same material and lay a layer of Dynamat over the holes for a better seal.
One word of caution. Lay drivers down on their back side. If you solder directly to the driver then do not lay them facing down - you may cause damage!
Solder pairs of wires (I suggest mild twisting) to the drivers and note the polarity, as marked on the driver. You should measure rough distances before starting the re-wire. Do not go by the length of the extracted wires, which were way too long. Try to route the upper wires away from the port opening by attaching them somehow to the cabinet walls. Bring the wires out through the rear backplate opening. Be careful how you string the top wires through the acoustic insulation in the top cabinet!
Now a trick... All three drivers have their (-) polarity going to the same amplifier ground terminal, so to get the crossover out you need 3 terminals for the (+) polarity of the individual drivers and one terminal for the shared (-) polarity of the three drivers. The backplate already has four terminals, so life gets much easier here.
You can replace the terminals at this time. We elected as a first step to re-use the same terminals and used new solder lugs to connect to them. The terminals have a hole in their center, so you could string the wires through the holes and avoid another mechanical contact. In any case, the holes probably should be sealed in some manner, even though I couldn't say they make things sound worse. After doing all this work, why not go the extra mile... Maybe even put a layer of Dynamat on the backplate inner side. An overkill, but heck, that's cheap...
The crossover terminals are well marked. If you don't trust your judgement then you should follow different steps to mark polarities on each driver and wire.
Marking everything is important. Once the unit is assembled with 3 pairs of unmarked wires sticking out the back side, you will need test instruments to figure out what's what. Mark everything!
If you can, use color coded wires for the job. That's easy to say for standard wires, but Teflon wires are harder to find in all sorts of colors. You really need just 4 colors since the ground is shared between all drivers.
I can tell you this. You better have a good soldering equipment. We decided to solder wires to the crossover boards (we might go point-to-point later) and these boards have large copper planes, aka heat sinks... You need serious heat there!
Be a bit more careful soldering to the driver terminals, especially the tweeter.
Like I said, this is a long and somewhat invasive job. If the story above sounds like "fun" then you are probably crazy enough to do it yourself... If it scares the s**t out of you then don't!
