Single Driver Horn vs Multi driver efficient spker

I have heard a number of single driver speakers that I have found enchanting (but not really exciting). These included several variants of the Lamhorns, Loth-X and the Ocellia. Of these, the Ocellia, which is based on a PHY driver, was by far the best. When you move up into the muti-driver speakers, and if you still want to stay SET efficient, the pickings become very slim indeed. Among these I consider the Fab Model 1 to be excellent if set up properly, used in a not-to-big room and driven with first class electronics (just like in Gliderguiders system). Even my Reference 3A Decapos are quite satisfactory with my 18 wpc KR SET amp, although I have mated them with subwoofers to cover the bottom octave or two. However, given a large enough room and sufficient power, none of these speakers comes even close to matching the dynamics, frequency extension (top and bottom) and imaging capability of the Total Victories. The TVs are simply stunning and certainly amoung the best speakers I have heard. Yes, you can use them with fairly low powered SETs (my KR will drive them quite adequately for lower volume listening) but they really need consideraly more power and control. A friend of mine is now using a pair of TVs with a Classe 2200 amp which, I think, puts out about 200 wpc. I did not believe that this combination would work but it is sublime. Sweet when required but incredibly forceful when needed (ie. large orchestra). His room is also quite large which definitely helps.
In other words, if your room is big enough to handle a large speaker and you have a good 50 watts or more, the TVs will out perform every single driver speaker and almost all multi driver speakers that I have heard in the past 35 yrs.

Hey Gmood1, I made a mistake...

My IM-Bens use the FE-168E Sigma, not the FE-168 Sigma with wizzer cone. (side-by-side picture) I'm not sure how big of difference that makes sound wise, but there are significant physical differences and the specs are totally different. Also, my drivers also have the optional heavy mass loading brass ring around the outside. I think the added mass is supposed to enhance definition and overall resolution.

Why don't we move this conversation over to the thread about my system, so we don't further fork this discussion from Brm's questions.

I've got some interesting SPL meter readings from my speakers and room.

"I like how the Sigma layers the music also.You have the advantage of using very low wattage amplifiers."

I've been searching for appropiate term that describes the overall presentation and "layers the music" is perfect. There's a complex harmony of layers going on. And I think a big part of that is low-watage SET & PP amps.

Anyway, hop on over to the thread about my system and we can continue with your points concerning in-room response.

Punch - where does it come from?

At what freq. does the "punch" happen?

As I understand it, the actual "attack" or "leading edge" of a drum strike or percussive note, actually happens much further up the frequency range than the body of the note(s). Perhaps even in the treble region.

But, that's not what we feel hit our bodies or energize the room is it? And in the case of typani or ketle srums struck with a padded mallet, there doesn't seem to be any preceding "snap".

I know it probably depends on the note the particular drum or instrument is tuned to, but does anyone have a good understanding of this topic and can shed a little light on it? Like what frequency are the Tom-Toms of a drum set commonly tuned to?

Guys, great responses I appreciate it. Here is my system at present. I have a ModWright Sony 999 with his max modding, I really like it...very musical. I have the new Omega Hemptone 8" driver speakers, they only have 150hrs on them, but Louis says that should do it. They have an amazing amount of bass, it will not hit you in the chest, but its there. My amp is a no name, as of yet, I got to be a beta tester for a company out of Canada. The amp has the most bottom end control and punch ( I know everyone likes that word) that I have heard from a 300b integrated. Now wether its as musical as it needs to be I dont know, yet. Maybe my problem is the amp and not the speakers. My old system was the same cdp and a Cary sli 80 and Coincident Super E III's. I liked it a lot, but wanted to go SET and did not think that the Super E at 92 db would have worked. But I liked that system better than the one I have now. So I am really trying to figure out if I should just get a different type of speaker or start over with some New Coincidents and a more powerful (845) type amp.
Thanks for the responses.
Mike

Whoa, that's a cool speaker. Hemp cone material, serious cabinet construction. I'd love to hear it in my system.For those interested, here's the Omega Hemptone 8" webpage. Eight inch driver, 96dB, 20"x11"x14".

You've got give up any type of comparsion between a 50Wpc KT-88/6550 push-pull amp into 5 driver floorstanders and a low power SET into a single-driver, fullrange, monitor. It's apples and oranges or the most extreme type unless you are simply talking about musical involvement.

No way you are ever going to get the type of punch you're used to out of your current setup. Fullrangers are generally low excursion drivers and your cabinet is not that big.

But, you should be able to get a purity, directness, and imaging that is superior via the simple SET design and crossoverless speakers. You should get a "reach out touch" type of midrange richness. The soundstage should much more holographic. And minute details and articulation should be lot more apparent. Subtle nuances that you never noticed.

Have you played with speaker location much? It has been much harder to locate my fullrangers for great sound than it was with my multidrivers.

Also, are you using the same speaker cables as before? That ould be the dynamics and punch problem. High(ish) efficiency speakers tend to favor small gauge cables. Magnet wire Litz configurations, etc.

Don't give up yet, it takes a lot of work to get the most out of a high-eff, single driver, system, but it is well worth it when you get there.

Try to get someone with a lot of high-eff/SET experience over to your house for a listen. They might help shorten the learning/setup curve substantially.

I was about to give up a few months ago, then had a really experienced horn guy come over. He convinced me to switch the speakers to the other side of the room and then helped with fine tuning the placement. It made a world of difference - I'm hooked.