SME V setup

The SME alignment tool does get things pretty close. And I agree a more fine grained tool gets better, and more repeatable results that can take your cartridge beyond what is possible with the SME jig.

Wally Malewicz of Wally Tractor fame makes the suggestion to enlarge ever so slightly the SME's cartridge mounting holes using a 2.8mm or 7/64 drill bit. Use a nice sharp drill bit turned into the existing holes. I was able to do this turning the bit by hand - the metal (magnesium?) is fairly soft. This allows the cartridge to be twisted a teeny amount to get better alignment of the cantilever with the line on the mirrored surface. A mirrored tool with a thin line works great - ideally one not wider than the cantilever. Really paid off for me with a SME Vd and Shelter 901.

I've fiddled with my SME IV.Vi a bunch. I'm using a Lyra Helicon. I can hear differences in VTA, Anti-skate, and tracking force. Pretty much just set it all close...and then expirament by ear. What I haven't done is go back and check overhang with a Wally tractor or your protractor. Makes sense to me.

I think the SME gauge gets things perfect assuming the cantilever is perfect inside the cartridge body...the protractor and wally tools get the more important thing right (cantilever alignement)

Do you use the damping trough? I don't hear much change by raising lowering the needle/paddle...

The SME setup jig has two basic problems. (One may or may not be a problem depending on the cartridge.)

1.) The method of reading and making adjustments leaves too big a margin for error, and the overhang can be off by as much as +/_ 3 to 4 mm.

2.) Unless the stylus tip falls directly below the pointed tip of the headshell (and most do), the SME jig will not be accurate anyway.

Yes, I also think the cantilever must be centered in and parallel with the cartridge body. I sent my vdH Frog back to be better aligned.

As for damping. MC cartridges are generally less compliant than MM's and so can usually do with a little damping. All other settings (particularly anti-skate) must be right on before trying to assess damping effects. I usually adjust anti-skate visually, increasing it until, when viewed from the front, the stylus/cantilever remain in the same position (relative to the cartridge body) in or out of the groove.

I think it's important to fill the trough right up to the first ledge (the instructions show it a little below.) Using a strong flashlight with the arm lift "up" and the arm swung to the center of the platter, I just lower the paddle/screw until it touches the surface of the silicone.

You can then increase the depth one turn at a time, but the effects are subtle. Too deep always reduces both image focus and overall output, because the outer groove wall is pushing so hard against the stylus to overcome the damping force that the stylus can't "wiggle" freely enough to trace the groove.

Damping is an adjustment that can't be objectively measured and really has to be done by ear (unless you have an ocilloscope.) I usually use a symbol crash, and adjust for the cleanest sounding decay -- that's always seemed to work. It's better to err on the side of too little IMO.

No matter what tool you use, I found using a line laser to aim the protractor to arm spindle much more accurate than eyeballs. You can get them from Home Depot, but they are bulky and not very bright under bright light. Fortunately my friend makes high power laser that is housed in a tiny enclosure, slightly bigger than a match box, and can be easily placed on platter or right next to it. I have loaned that laser to aother audiophile friend and he also found it to be more accurate than what his naked eyes can do. We are now seriously thinking of marketing the laser here on Audiogon.