Subwoofer output closer or farther away from wall

While I'm not familiar with this sub, or capabilites/attributes, the real only way to increase it's effective output potential in your room is to indeed get it closer to boundaries! You need an extension cord to solve your "reach" issue. As for your concern about the sub having "no port" to "emphesize it's bass", that is of no issue. Simply moving the sub acoustically closer to the corner will reinforce the bass, and more so up the frequency range as you get closer and closer. You'll reinforce more of the room bass modes this way however, and the sub takes on more of a "boomy", "one-notey", "peaky" and "unatural" sound however this way. Still, if you don't have enough sub, this is all you can do.
The solution to this placment, besides proper seating consideration for smoothest bass response, is to "EQ" the sub out for all seating considerations!
Another compromise, to give more bass output(although not as much as corner), is to place the sub closer to a wall on the floor, wich will boost the already 3 db(generalizing for all frequencies covered) boost your floor is giving you by another 3-6db. The corner will boost even more of course.
You'll, by the way, have to consider for phase adjustment once you move your sub away from your speakers in relation to the seating possitions, so consider if you have control over such(even reversing wiring if you have no phase control, and it needs reversing).
Hope this helps

With a sub you should not really be aware of its output unless you turn it off, if you catch my drift. I doubt it is output. Those are the same subs on the Infinity Prelude and Intermezzo 4.1's. Did not the sub come with a RABOS kit? This kit will allow you, with a little patience and difficult reading allow you to set the volume and parametric EQ. Like I said I have one of the suckers attached to each speaker and rarely do I know they are working unless I forget to turn them on, and they are almost flat in response to 23 Hz in my room. Maybe you are missing the "boom" of regular speakers? If you have the kit and need some help explaining how it works shoot me an email and I'll help.

I pushed the subwoofer closer to the wall, and the improvement of the low end in comparison to the previous set up is not small. Now, I can feel, I guess hear it being more active than before. The other question that I have Kchahoc, you have the same subs, right? Was there a different between having two instead of a single one? I wonder. They are on sale now, but I wonder, if I will be able to hear an improvement should I get a second one, or I will overbassing my listening room. How is this sub in comparison to others you have heard?

Never had just one turned on as they are set up that way with the RABOS system. But the volume is only about 3 1/2 on each and my room is about 25 * 13 with cathedral ceilings. Got rid of that nasty 47 Hz hump I'll say that. The only other subs I ever had around were an earlier Infinity Il120 (I think hat was it) and the B&W 2000. I'll stick with what I have, if that means anything.

And since you asked I’ll go ahead and say that I did not think the subs worked properly both at first and until I measured them. I was not prepared for a smooth bass response. Others also say two subs is best but I'm not exactly convinced of that.

I am very confused with the manual set up of the Rabos system. At first when I was doing the level of the system, I could not get the system to go to 0 db as stated in the manual, the closest I could get was 1 db. So, now that I pushed it to the wall, I am sure I will get more output. The questions I have are several.

First, how did you manage to get to 0 db as stated? I had to crank my main horn speakers and and the sub to get it to 1 db, should the output be calculated, flatly with the sound output of the sub? I got my volume control to about 11 o'clock to get the 1 db. That is question 1.

Second, when I began the measurement of the width, I as a smooth plot at 1 db from 100 hz to about 60 hz and from then on, there were variations. For whatever it was worth, I had a hump or peak at 45 hzFrom there on, I read the scale and began to measure the gradations, attempting to get the W, L, Fr at the peak hump to be as flat as possible to 1 db level. Is what I did right?

The manual is very bad in explaining the set up, so I had to interpolate information to get all the information and also, to deductively adjust the sub. I will have to re run the test now that I have placed it closer to the wall.

I would like to have some answers to the inquiries that I have.

Thanks.