Here are my posts from that day:
06-16-2021 5:40pmOkay, its been a rough couple days. I just got done drawing the schematic and looking at the words and measurements again. Just one note, do all measurement in the resistance mode, not in the diode mode as the diode mode really doesn't tell us anything. You don't need to disconnect one end of the resistors to check each resistor. So with no drivers attached, between the midrange terminals on the crossover board, you get close to 2.2 ohms, but it's not a dead short correct? For the tweeter terminals, you get close to 0 ohms, but not a dead short correct? At the mid/hi amp inputs, you get essentially OL after holding the probes on the terminals for few seconds, correct? What happens when you reverse the leads on the mid/hi amp terminals? Does the meter go to (-) xxx.x ohms then to (+) xxx.x ohms before going to OL? This is a dumb question, but just so I understand everything. When you use only one amplifier to power the speaker in the full range (bi-WIRE) mode, the (+) terminals of the inputs are connected together. And separately, the (-) terminals of the inputs are connected together, correct? The photos are gone, but don't think we need it again. From your DC voltage measurements at the amps, they look healthy. Please answer all of my questions in order, so we don't get confused, thanks.fiesta75404 posts06-16-2021 5:48pmWhich resistor, if it's STILL showing a dead short or 0.00 ohms? This is the one mentioned in post 6-16 @ 12:59amfiesta75404 posts06-16-2021 7:06pmCORRECTION, sorry. The last test on the mid/hi amp terminals on the crossover board; when I asked to to test and then reverse the meter leads and test again. The multimeter should be set on the "diode" test mode, not ohms. The readout should display some voltage then go to OL. When you immediately reverse the leads, the display should read -x.xxx volts, then change to +x.xxx volts before going to OL. Hope your meter has a diode test function, but it's not absolutely necessary. This test just shows that the caps are charging in both directions.
I still can't explain why the system worked with one amp when the mid/high amp was in repair... This is troubling.
rodman - I appreciate your comments. I just don't want the OP to do anymore work on the boards before doing tests. It seems like he is doing rework in the middle of the tests and that could make some tests invalid. This could create more problems as I'm sure you know. The only test I want from him before finalizing everything is the dc resistance across the tweeter terminals of the board, because his last info on that makes me think the resistance he measured was below what I expected from a 0.22 mH inductor. All help is welcome.
06-16-2021 5:40pmOkay, its been a rough couple days. I just got done drawing the schematic and looking at the words and measurements again. Just one note, do all measurement in the resistance mode, not in the diode mode as the diode mode really doesn't tell us anything. You don't need to disconnect one end of the resistors to check each resistor. So with no drivers attached, between the midrange terminals on the crossover board, you get close to 2.2 ohms, but it's not a dead short correct? For the tweeter terminals, you get close to 0 ohms, but not a dead short correct? At the mid/hi amp inputs, you get essentially OL after holding the probes on the terminals for few seconds, correct? What happens when you reverse the leads on the mid/hi amp terminals? Does the meter go to (-) xxx.x ohms then to (+) xxx.x ohms before going to OL? This is a dumb question, but just so I understand everything. When you use only one amplifier to power the speaker in the full range (bi-WIRE) mode, the (+) terminals of the inputs are connected together. And separately, the (-) terminals of the inputs are connected together, correct? The photos are gone, but don't think we need it again. From your DC voltage measurements at the amps, they look healthy. Please answer all of my questions in order, so we don't get confused, thanks.fiesta75404 posts06-16-2021 5:48pmWhich resistor, if it's STILL showing a dead short or 0.00 ohms? This is the one mentioned in post 6-16 @ 12:59amfiesta75404 posts06-16-2021 7:06pmCORRECTION, sorry. The last test on the mid/hi amp terminals on the crossover board; when I asked to to test and then reverse the meter leads and test again. The multimeter should be set on the "diode" test mode, not ohms. The readout should display some voltage then go to OL. When you immediately reverse the leads, the display should read -x.xxx volts, then change to +x.xxx volts before going to OL. Hope your meter has a diode test function, but it's not absolutely necessary. This test just shows that the caps are charging in both directions.
I still can't explain why the system worked with one amp when the mid/high amp was in repair... This is troubling.
rodman - I appreciate your comments. I just don't want the OP to do anymore work on the boards before doing tests. It seems like he is doing rework in the middle of the tests and that could make some tests invalid. This could create more problems as I'm sure you know. The only test I want from him before finalizing everything is the dc resistance across the tweeter terminals of the board, because his last info on that makes me think the resistance he measured was below what I expected from a 0.22 mH inductor. All help is welcome.