Aren't you glad that the Blue fuse sounds great as soon as you install it? I think that is one of it's best features.
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The differences my friends and I have heard in the directionality of SR fuses is tantamount to the differences heard in equipment with polarized A/C plugs (namely older CD players). Directionality of insertion is quite obvious. I have not done a scientific survey of why that exists, only that it is audibly significant (VERY). |
Geoff, maybe your statement should include that there is a tweak for every system as nearly all audio systems (equipment and room treatment) vary. What works in one of my audio systems does not necessarily work in my other audio system the same way. However, the SR fuse had such an obvious and apparent improvement over stock cheap fuses that an equipment designer thought it was easy to upgrade his equipment after hearing it without a double blind test. Frank knows that a few (6) high quality capacitors in the right place changes a now cheap DVD player into a world beater CD player.
We have done double blind tests on his IC cables from earlier to later versions which have great similarity. They require this type of test to ferret out what we like and dislike concerning the new versus older design cables. We use different types of music repeated on a CD recording with a third party organizing the CD. Then we listen, make comments and the cable designer decides what he will do next to his new design to keep it or start again and try something else (really subtle changes such as 26g. silver ribbon in place of a 28g. copper ribbon to obtain more open highs). |
Thank you nonoise for your link to Scientific Proof mythology.
As to the Prof, ha! I do the same type of mastering. Directionality change in fusing is obvious to me (and to my friends). There is no "subtlety" in the difference. I don't give a rat's ass why. From out of phase to in phase as if the polarity were reversed. Choose in phase or suffer poor sound.
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Prof=".so I don’t see any reason to spend time on this tweak vs any other. "
So get off this site and stop harrassing audiophiles who like better sound through better fusing. We don't need your kind here!! |
I experimented with bussman and littlefuses as to their directionality. I couldn't tell the difference between one or another direction. There may have been, but it was too subtle for me to notice.
As to SR fuses, their directionality is obvious. It is equivalent to in phase and out of phase recordings and polarized A/C plugs. Extremely obvious(!!) to my friends and myself. I had no expectation bias when I first purchased the SR black fuse. I had the fuse inserted "out of phase" on my first attempt. Upon reversing the direction as per OPs' recommendation, the correct direction was obtained and "in phase" sound resulted.
The SR Blue fuse is not as great a leap in sound (modest relatively speaking) compared to the SR Black fuse. Anyone with an SR Black fuse should be enjoying enhanced sound in a good sounding audio system (low resolution systems probably not). |
My friend/manufacturer thinks graphene is a joke, TC is a joke, SR HFTs, Blackbox and Atmosphere are jokes BUT he absolutely is convinced that the SR fuse and duplexes are NO JOKES. This is a guy who wouldn't listen to CDs until 15 years ago when he rebuilt a CD player to make CDs sound like analog (we both agree on that and have huge collections of CDs and records-OP is using his rebuilt CD player). He doesn't know why the fuse makes a difference except for the possibility that the SR fuse transfers more A/C current through than a cheap, thin wired fuse. He proved that by using a circuit breaker (he didn't know whether it is magnetic or thermal type) with a large contact area that works as good as an SR Blue fuse. |
Hi Geoff, back to the graphene. My friend states that since it is only 1 atom thick, it can't possibly be effective or incorporated into a silver based paste and remain 1 atom thick. He states that the exterior paste once applied is like graphite, looks and feels like graphite. He doesn't want anyone to use it on his 99% silver RCA connectors for his ICs. He doesn't believe in micro-arching on the scale that disrupts the audio signal. He said it shouldn't be a big problem for higher voltage connectors such as speaker wire and A/C plugs but hates the stuff in general. I am only relating what this cable manufacturer says. Otherwise, he's brilliant and designs tremendously musical equipment and cables for affordable prices. He's a stubborn guy, so for him to admit the obvious difference in fuses and their directionality is significant. |
Not only that opinion stated by Ted, but he offers a 30 day trial of any of his products. That allows anyone and everyone to test out the product to see if it does what it professes to do and if the device is worth the change in sound if there is a difference. I haven't purchased or tried a Synergistic Research product that didn't make a sonic difference, usually to my liking but not always.
I've tried about a dozen different types of equipment footers until I decided on the current iteration of Stillpoints throughout my main system. |
So, do you make your own fuses? Do you market your fuses? If neither, what fuses are you using and why do you think they work/sound better? Thanks |
I am having difficulty following him. Do I really want to know what Tru-Fi listening equipment is? I feel that I'm getting a Tru-Fi listening experience right now, in my music room, through trial and error. Most of my equipment is 12 to 30 years old. Most of my tweaks are recent to 10 years old with the primary tweaks to the room, not the equipment. |
I think that the moderator should delete all of Bo's postings here. They are nonsense. |
I live in the San Fernando Valley/L.A. and the smog was horrendous in the 60’s and 70’s. It improved by 1990; however, I owned three Dynavector cartridges (Ruby, Karat and XXL) between 1979 and 1988 whose cantilevers froze after 3 years each due to the effects of smog on the rubber type components (apparently crystalized solid or just deteriorated and froze). Since the smog has gone from where I live (due to severe environment changes in auto/truck/steel plant closing/paint/solvents/ furniture manufacturing, etc), I’ve owned a Lyra stylus Lydian for 8 years and a Benz Ruby 3 for 12 years with no deterioration of the assembly (Lydian wore out). Smog is very bad for everything including audio equipment.
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I don't know, but the SR blue fuses just sounded great from the start and got slightly better over time, so unlike the SR black fuse experience. I didn't notice any wild ride like the SR Blacks (those sounded bad from the 11th to 70th hours). |
tattoedtrackman There should be big differences in using the SR blue fuse immediately. It does improve over time but in my system it was a subtle improvement. The SR black fuse takes 72 hours, trust me, that one you don't want to hear from the 10th or 15th hour on until it's broken in.
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The direction sonically is the one which focuses the sound. If it is in the wrong direction, it sounds like it is out of phase. That's my experience with two different sets of amps whereby each had a different direction, one with the words facing in and the other had the words facing out. So, try each direction and check for phasiness and focus. |
I've previously noted that a test that I used in two audio systems for directionality. If the sound you hear is out of phase, not focused and somewhat bright compared to a more focused, solid and warmer sound, stick with the latter for directionality. The SR Blue fuse sounded great right away while the SR Black took 72 long hours to achieve it's great sound. I'm so happy to pay only $20 more for a ready to use fuse. |
The improvement in the blue fuse after a few dozen hours is relatively minor compared to the improvement in the Omega E-mats day by day until two weeks. Actually, the first 24 hours makes a big improvement. Why buy a black SR fuse when for $20 more one can purchase a superior sounding fuse that sounds great immediately? I guess SR has too many black fuses left and is still selling them. |
Who has heard this to answer it?
How different is the Blue duplex versus the Black duplex? Is it as much as between the two colored fuses or something less?
The difference between the Black and Blue fuses was good but not tremendous, unlike the difference between the Black and the standard fuse, or the Red or Black duplex and a standard Hubbell hospital grade duplex. |
inforguy5068
I have both Black and Blue fuses and prefer the blue overall. It was easy to tell which fuses were stock as the difference is so great between 2 & 3 and 1 & 4 (stock). The Black duplex outlet is also very superior to stock outlets including hospital grade Hubbells (then again so are my older Reds). I'm not anxious to install Blue duplex outlets at this time (I'm almost 63 too). The fuse change was especially easy with the Blue fuse sounding better immediately versus the 72 hour break-in period for the Black. Get the Blue fuse and enjoy better music without the wait. |
uberwaltz-same here except I changed to the latest GroverHuffman cables as well. It at least doubled the effect of the 12 E-Mats. I haven't changed my equipment in 12 years but also added SR HFTs (and eliminated sound absorption paneling) and Stillpoints. |
I bought a Bryston BIT-20. The tech told me the 20 amp A/C cable was very good. It was mediocre and slowed down the pace of the music. Installed a high end GroverHuffman A/C cable and voila, open and rhythmically correct music. It allowed the BIT-20 to improve the sound. |
I'm rather surprised that the SR Blue fuse didn't sound nearly settled in after placing it in the correct direction within an hour. About a year ago, I blew an amp resistor which took out a blue fuse. After replacing it, it sounded about the same as a broken in fuse. Between replacement, I used my older SR black fuse. The blue was immediately better. |
I have custom amps with two huge storage caps. SR told me to use 8 amp fuses in place of the 5 amp fuse it is rated for. This is because the on turn on, those huge 7" X 3" pair of caps draw tremendous amount compared to my EAR 890 which has itty bitty storage caps (not updated yet). So, it depends on the current draw of your storage caps to determine what size fuse you require. Ask SR based on your current draw if an 8 amp fuse would be a better match. |
My amp manufacturer told me that it was safe to use an 8 amp fuse. He also did one thing better by installing a 5 amp circuit breaker in place of the fuses. Sounds about the same as my amps now.
I had a tube and resistor blow about six months ago. The fuse went as well to protect the amp. So, the fuse worked. Used a SR black fuse while waiting for the blue fuse replacement. Not bad but not as colorful or open sounding as the blue. The blue is worth the few dollars more. If I only blow a fuse due to tube failure once every three years, that's fine with me. I am using six 6BG6 output tubes per amp. They tend to last about 1500 to 2000 hours, then glow red and blow. They only cost about $7 a tube so it's the fuse that costs the most. |
Jetter got on my case in the PPF forum as well. Sort of like a short trying to drive down the price of stock on a Yahoo finance forum. |
Ben Piazza came over and could not get better sound out of his Shakti Stones in my system. They are system dependent. But two pairs of his Hallographs are more important than SR fuses and HFTs. My speakers really need the Hallographs. Another big loser for my system were the Magico Qpods under five pieces of my equipment. Awful effect of loss of PRAT and dulling the sound. Supposedly excellent for Magico speakers. The kept all my Stillpoints instead. |
Same here with the "black hole" CD dampener. No difference. |
Ben Piazza didn't say there was a valid reason, only that his stones don't work in my system on any transformer or over equipment. I prefer PP Omega E-Mats where just one makes a positive (and significant) difference. |
The one thing which would make the Dark Matter appealing is if it did not harm. Funny thing with the Shakti Stones, they made the sound worse. I will try the Dark Matter once I move into my new home. |
I did not mean harm the operation of the equipment. I meant lessening the audio sound quality, just as the Shakti Stones did. The NDM is certainly inexpensive to try. Unfortunately, the Shakti Stones also did no favors to my friends Robert or Grovers systems. Robert and Frank are on the same page as to the fantastic benefit the Hallographs make. |
My main problem with changing fuses and duplexes are the bad sound until they are broken in. The red to black duplex sounded great, the black to blue was not so nice with a harder, brighter sound from the blue until about a week after it was installed. The red to black fuse was not good either with bad sound from 15 to 72 hours from the black fuse.
Contrary to the duplex, the blue fuse sounded better than the broken in black fuse immediately. I'm glad to hear that the orange fuse sounds better than the blue immediately too. Next is the orange duplex. Who knows when and then the purple of each. I don't mind the improvements so long as I don't have to suffer bad sound for 72 hours or a week until the sound returns to good/better than before.
I'm glad to read that Robert heard the Stop-Its prior to their proper curing and thought they were a step back at the beginning. Now the Stop-Its sold as cured should sound good immediately or soon after insertion. I'll have to try those next. |
