Thiel Owners

Is there a recap kit available for the 3.6? Also my thiels aren’t bright like many keep saying the 3.6’s are. Very smooth. Yes the tweeter works I tested that with my hearing aids. Anyways my amp search may be pushed back yet again due to my car having exposed metal on the rocker panel that I only noticed after I took it to a car wash. (Dried Salt spray and bare metal/primer hide each other well). So more time to look for amps. Still trying to find out what the adcom has. 60+ amperes and more than 300 watts is the recommendation right? I wish there weren’t so many possibilities. More than a few people on Facebook are recommending class d amps. Will those have the power to drive thiels current wise and headroom wise? Trying to stick to class a/b personally 

Jimi - I recommend restoring the CS1.2s as a very fine little speaker. I use the CS1.2 drivers in an 02 cabinet to compare components,wire and cabinet treatments. Rob at Coherent Source Service has parts. I think you'll be glad you did.

Thoft - I've been messing with the 3.6s for the past few months. I consider their stock components highly optimized and am therefore investigating other upgrades in priority over component upgrades. That said, there are ongoing DIY upgrades happening behind the curtain on this forum - perhaps someone might comment.
I can recommend the fruits of our research, which lands on replacing series feed caps with ClarityCap CSAs in the highest voltage you can fit or afford. Swap resistors to Mills MRA-12s, especially in feed stations.

As background, I have bragged about those yellow caps as state of the art, and they were in their day - tin foil on styrene film, they measure and sound quite good. However CC's CSA invention replaces the normal zinc spluttered end caps with a copper-containing matrix, and updates the geometry to wider and shorter, for a significant performance upgrade. BTW, I've compared the CSAs and CMRs to many of the sexy caps out there, and I believe the CCs are as good as it gets in terms of truth and accuracy, especially at their affordable prices.

Another nearly free upgrade you can DIY is to re-mount the crossover panels on rubber standoffs to reduce vibration in the crossovers.

Myself and others have applied an opposite or different method to the mounting of crossovers internal to the cabinet.. We do secure the individual components to the board using rope caulk or other soft adhesives as well as zip ties. Instead of slowing down and storing some of the vibration inside we direct couple the slowed and misdirected energy to the floor or wall of the cabinet. I use small brass Audiopoints and the brass coupling discs. The board rests on these devices and the board can be secured with brass screws to the cabinet base. We have an extended method that allows for resonance tuning from outside the cabinet. This method while more invasive the improvement can clearly be heard by using a hex tool..To provide a continuum of thoughts on this mechanical conduit we set the speakers on our Audiopoints or our Sistrum Platforms and speaker stands. We use the same materials and geometry to maintain the capture and redirect direct the  exit speed of resonance to the largest mechanical ground plane..the floor. There is also a similar method that can be applied to bass and midrange drivers which also allows for resonance tuning outside the box. Tom