Thiel Owners


Guys-

I just scored a sweet pair of CS 2.4SE loudspeakers. Anyone else currently or previously owned this model?
Owners of the CS 2.4 or CS 2.7 are free to chime in as well. Thiel are excellent w/ both tubed or solid-state gear!

Keep me posted & Happy Listening!
128x128jafant

In the eventual realm, I am working with ScanSpeak (Vifa) on a 'new' tweeter in that motor frame. My target diaphragm has the potential of greater specific stiffness than aluminum without the ringing and without the high expense of carbon. Work in progress. 

For now, that soft dome (I don't know how soft) was engineered to fit that motor and alleged to be plug-in compatible. Jon, see if Rob can make a frequency sweep for you on both driver types so we can compare and contrast.

 

duramax747

 

Thank You for citing the S/N on your CS 2.4SE

loudspeakers. 
 

Happy Listening!

Does anyone have experience matching a subwoofer to 1.5s? They get down to 42hz but I now have them in a large room so missing some bass.  I removed the grill recently and saw the 6.5 inch woofer working so hard it looked like it was going to bounce out of the cabinet so I thought crossing over above 42 would make sense to take some strain off the small woofer. I've read about the Thiel subs but they are hard to find and expensive. I've spoken to REL and they recommended the T7, a pair even. I'm concerned about timing in matching with Thiel but I've read articles that say subs can easily integrate if set up correctly and there are videos for this. All thoughts and experiences are welcome and appreciated.

@fsgattuso, While I typically suggest going low at the cross-over point to subwoofers; with the CS 1.5’s I think you’ll need to go higher to reduce strain on the woofers. Perhaps to 65-70 Hz. BTW, I strongly suggest going with at least 2 subs rather than just 1, even if the two are both smaller than the one.…

…Or, just sell the 1.5’s and move on to bigger Thiels.

The proper place to cross over an added subwoofer (and I've owned a bunch of Rels (over 20 years) is first to measure where the mains drop off in your room.  Bass frequencies sum.  So if your mains and sub are playing the same frequencies you'll often end up with a bass bump.  So you'll want to set the crossover just below where your mains drop off.

Measuring does not have to be difficult or expensive.  If you have a smartphone, Studio Six Digital has apps, both ones that cost money and free ones (including an RTA).  Then you'll need pink noise and it can be downloaded (or bought).  There are free downloads.  Lastly, you'll need a mic for the smartphone.  Parts Express sell the Dayton Audio IMM-6 mic (it used to be cheaper - think it is around $22).  The mic comes with a custom calibration file that you download after you get it.

If you have a lapton and prefer to use REW (Room EQ Wizard, which is free) or another program, Parts Express sell a UMM-6 USB mic.  It is more money but it depends on you preferences.