You wrote, "When I put the center pivot of the arm at the specified distance, 296mm..." Are you saying that you can set up the tonearm such that the distance from the pivot point to the axis of the spindle is exactly or very nearly exactly 296mm and that 296mm is the recommended distance per Reed? (This is in contrast to Miller Carbon's major assumption, which was that you are off by a "few inches".) It's very important to clarify this issue. Anyway, IF you have been able to achieve the specified 296mm for P2S (shorthand for "pivot to spindle"), that is good. Having done that, what are you using for a template to guide you in setting up the offset angle of the cartridge? Be sure you are using a protractor that is appropriate for the P2S distance of 296mm. If you are using a garden variety template, it may be designed for shorter tonearms, which would result in the problem you note, that you cannot achieve the proper angle for the cartridge. In reality, if you have the P2S set correctly, that should result in close to proper stylus overhang, and you should not need to do much twisting of the cartridge body at all, with respect to the Reed headshell, to get you into good alignment.
Tone arm holes do not line up - best way to attach TT?
I bought a new Reed tone arm (3p 12" Tonearm Ruthernium) and the holes do not line up on my Haas table. I'm new to vinyl ... can I attach it with double sided tape? I can use silicon which is strong and can be easily removed? Or, does this approach negate the dampening of table? I've gone to great lengths to isolate with a rack, spikes and 3" thick maple slab that the TT rests on. What is the "normal" way when that happens? Thanks in advance.
- ...
- 44 posts total
- 44 posts total