TT-101 turntables…or any DD decks


It’s funny how in audio…..I’ve had many mishaps over the years which have led to ‘forced’ improvements in my system…..

The latest happened just 3 days ago when the ‘Power’ switch on my 35 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 turntable failed to ‘turn-off’ when pressed……leaving the unit ‘powered up’ with three diodes continuously on……
I thought to myself……time to have the unit serviced and all the capacitors replaced (at least)…..

I have thus been listening over the last three days and nights and have been struck by the perceived improvement in ‘sound’?
Everything seemed better….the timing….the solidity…the noise-floor….the subtlety…..the transparency…..
And then it hit me……
With solid state gear…..I have always kept them ‘powered on’.
My Halcro DM-10 Preamp is always on ‘Mute’ (as was the valve Kebschull before it and the SS Electrocompaniet before then).
My Halcro DM-58 Monoblocks are always ‘on’ (as was the Perraux PM-1850 power amp before them).
Most DD drive turntables I know of are all solid state……
Why should they be any different?
Why would they not benefit from the capacitors being fully charged with the transformer/power supply, PCB, transistors and resistors fully ‘heated’?

This for me…has been a more significant improvement than ‘nakeding’ the ‘nude’ Victor which I recently accomplished…

It’s such an easy thing for anyone to try out….there is simply no ‘down-side’……other than the diodes burning out? :-)

Happy listening…..and Happy New Year….
128x128halcro
Thanks Henry

I know Chris, he is out at Croydon Park.

I did not realise he had experience with dd tables.

Cheers
Banquo,
We've never "pulled" the motor, and so far as I can tell by inspection, no one has ever messed with the screw that allows access to the bearing thrust plate. But when you say the motor rests on washers, I have to think. As you know, the electronics all hang on the metal assembly that also contains the motor per se. Are these "washers" accessed by trying to remove the motor from the rest of the metal structure? If so, mine should still have them; I am pretty sure Bill did not take that apart, and I know I didn't either.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I agree that now is the time to service the bearing.
As you know, the electronics all hang on the metal assembly that also contains the motor per se. Are these "washers" accessed by trying to remove the motor from the rest of the metal structure?

Yes, Lewm.
Lew, try to determine if the noise is coming from platter friction due to contact with the metal housing of the turntable. Any slight lowering of the bearing height will result in scraping of the platter. If the motor was removed then check that the washers to support the motor are in place.

If the noise is not coming from the platter then it must be from the motor. I have experienced a similar scraping sound at 45 rpm but not at 33 after oiling. It was due to incorrect bearing height as the bearing screw was not repositioned exactly where it was originally. I doubt if your TT needs oiling...if it did then it should produce sounds at 33 rpm.

Lew I would carefully mark the position of the bearing screw before unscrewing to oil the bearing or adjust. It is easy to do with a marker pen or simply just score the screw and the housing with a thin bladed screw driver.

The screw actually determines the height of the bearing and thus the central spindle for the motor. There is actually a round metal plate that could scrape a pc board inside the motor. Too low and the plate would scrape but too high and another part of the motor would begin to touch the housing causing friction.

What I would do in your case is to simply mark the bearing screw position and screw clockwise a tiny bit ...maybe 1mm and check the result. If it does not solve your problem then try again.

Hope this helps. I am not an expert and take no responsibility if you in any way damage your TT or bearing. I am just relating my experience.
Dear Dickson, Thanks for all the suggestions, but as I wrote earlier, the bearing was never messed with, nor was the motor per se ever removed from the main chassis (at least not by me or Bill Thalmann), and I did check to see if there was visible rubbing or any physical contact between the rotating platter and the well in which it sits, and I could detect none. Moreover, now that I think of it, the noise should be present at 33 as well as at 45, if it's simply a matter of platter height and "rubbing". Yet the unit is silent at 33, or at least silent enough that I do not hear the noise from about 2 feet away at 33. (Probably should get out my stethoscope.) We shall see.

Oh, and the last thing I would ever do is to hold you responsible for anything. I am no virgin when it comes to DIY or direct-drive.