Turnable database with TimeLine


Here is a database showing various turntables being tested for speed accuracy and speed consistency using the Sutherland TimeLine strobe device. Members are invited to add their own videos showing their turntables.

Victor TT-101 with music

Victor TT-101 stylus drag

SME 30/12

Technics SP10 MK2a

Denon DP-45F
peterayer
FWIW, my unit has all new electrolytics. That's the first thing we did during the first round at Bill's shop. On the second go-round, Bill re-soldered all those suspect solder joints. When it then failed in my house, I myself re-soldered yet more of the connections, to no avail. (There wasn't much left to do; Bill was very thorough.) To Richard's question: there are no obvious sources of RFI in my basement in my suburban residential neighborhood. Maybe we missed something as regards solder joints, because transport seems to be associated with the problem's elusive nature, suggesting that shipping trauma can rattle some connection that is tenuous. Hence, I will give it a good swift kick as soon as I get it back home. That should do 'er some good.
Lew
A crude but effective test for RFI which is perhaps worth trying.
If you have a portable AM radio. Tune it off station and move it around your room listening for increased static. Maybe something there that is not at first apparent.
About a million of them, Halcro :).

Here are some quotes from my tech to perhaps narrow things down.

The PCB is two sided but without plated through holes. It looks like they put eyelets in and then solder on both sides. I found one that was open but by the time I pulled the PCB it was connecting. I resoldered it and now the 45 light comes on and that speed works. The 33 light never comes on so I think there is something wrong with that flip flop....

Doing just the few that looked suspect did not work (it did work but only for a day and then the gremlins reappeared), so after trying several other types of fixes, he ended up doing them all:

There were no bad parts, just bad connections. I ended up resoldering all the feed thru eyelets, then flipping the board and removing the solder with a sucker, then resoldering them with much less solder. They all look pretty clean now. I know other companies that used the eyelet method had reliability problems. For some reason the solder cracks around the eyelets, probably related to different coefficients of thermal expansion.

So, look for the joints that utilize 'eyelets' (I'm not sure whether that's a subset of all the joints or all of them). I think it took him a couple of hours to do them all, so not too bad.
Dear Richard, If anything, the tt itself generates RFI internally. I think Halcro noticed some related issues when he ran his "naked", without the metal casing. In fact, I think we all concluded that one function of that casing is to shield other components from RFI. But how could extraneous RFI account for my problem? (By the way, I do use the AM radio as an RFI detector. Moreover, my TT101 malfunctions exactly the same in our kitchen on the first floor as it does in the basement, which I should think is a much more inherently protected environment, because it's all below ground.) I don't say you cannot be correct; I just wonder why and how. Your further thoughts are welcome.