Turntable speed accuracy


There is another thread (about the NVS table) which has a subordinate discussion about turntable speed accuracy and different methods of checking. Some suggest using the Timeline laser, others use a strobe disk.

I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
peterayer
Hi Dev,
I am using only two motors instead of the three. I found that with the standard Raven belt......the speed consistency was better than with the three.
I assume that the extra belt contact on the platter has something to do with it?
The same principle should apply to the thread and yes.....Daniel did warn me about possible marking and wear on the side of the platter with the thread because of the soft Delcrin material.....but I'm prepared to accept this for the increased performance.

Hi Lew,
The Timeline is dead-on accurate as I have proved using the TT-101.
The KAB Strobe must be wrong/faulty?
I haven't listened to the Raven set up according to the strobe since I received the Timeline. All I can tell you is that the TT-101 initially blew the Raven away (sound-wise) when the Raven was set up using the KAB.
With the Raven running the thread drive on two motors and set up according to the Timeline.......the differences to the Victor are not that great.
In other words.....I can happily listen to both decks.

Dear Solong,
Thanks for the hints.
Unfortunately......my cantilevered wall shelf slopes alarmingly to the front due to the weight of the Raven....and the motors require the utmost levelling of the feet to maintain their horizontality. Feet of some sort....are a prerequisite?

Hi Dover,
The Raven motor pulleys do not seem to allow the thread to move visually up and down.
I also have some French silk thread which I can try as well. Some sexy colours also :-)
Dover,

is your platter the same POD material as the TW product?

Looking closer at my platter I can actually run the thread either on the POD material or COPPER.

Which is the harder material? anyone know.
... your new experience with a thread driven Raven sounds good.
Next, you could try this:
- disassemble the three feet from both of your motor housings
- set up the housings flat on some kind of damping mat (a piece of anti-drone mat for washing machines would help)
- rearrange the strings

Now the motor housings are no longer able to wobble slightly on their feet (that's particularly the case when strong tension of the belt/tape/thread is applied). In my experience this has also positive effects on speed consistency and sound improvement.
The Raven is a LP12 "in heavy". No matter what you do, it will always change its "performance". Typical sub level Design attribute. Tweaking a dead cow to a horse is interesting, no doubt, but other Designers made better work.
Solong's observations regarding play in the Raven motors feet is spot on. I utilize PTFE plumbers tape on the threads of the feet to eliminate the play and the metal to metal interface. I have since applied the tape to other applications in my system including speaker spikes and triplanar screws with very positive results. Metal to metal interfaces and improperly tightened components are generally not good a thing.