Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?


I have just acquired a 32 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 DD turntable after having its lesser brother, the TT-81 for the last year.
TT-101
This is one of the great DD designs made at a time when the giant Japanese electronics companies like Technics, Denon, JVC/Victor and Pioneer could pour millions of dollars into 'flagship' models to 'enhance' their lower range models which often sold in the millions.
Because of their complexity however.......if they malfunction.....parts are 'unobtanium'....and they often cannot be repaired.
128x128halcro
Yeah...nice finish Chak 😃
It may be hard to obtain on the existing veneer....?
Maybe a car body and paint-shop?

I decided to try, maybe both methods (new veneer one one plinth and paint on another). What i don't like on original Victor plinth is that veneer surface on arm boards and on the plinth always mismatch. I think it's possible to prepare the original for new veneer (some nice exotic wood) or prepare it for proper automotive paint over the original plinth.  

 In my opinion the armboard on the factory Plinth is a weak link. It’s made of MDF; I never heard an MDF part that didn’t seem to add coloration. I replaced mine with solid aluminum, custom made. Furthermore I reinforced the arm board from below by bolting it to another large piece of aluminum under the plinth. I can’t say I did an A-B comparison, but the result seems very neutral.
Do you trust the Victor engineers....?
I do 🤗
I've never lubricated mine.

I recently overhauled the engine of the TT-71 opened to check the pivot and the oil, I was surprised that after 40 years the pivot was perfect and without any signs while the oil was still as new; I wanted to replace the oil only for scruple.

The Technics SP10 MK II, on the other hand, always have a bad oil color that must necessarily be replaced and the pivots always have some stripes, I can't understand why.
In my research, I never came across a communication from Victor wherein they suggest that the bearing "never" would need service. This is in contrast to the Denon DP80, where Denon do warn customers to leave the bearing alone. (But I daresay they probably were not envisioning a 40+ year lifespan when that advisory was issued.) Anyway, when I had my TT101 motor apart, it was very easy to access the bearing well, and I did clean out the well and replace the lubricant with a single grade synthetic motor oil, the same brand and weight that are recommended on the L07D website for the Kenwood L07D. I kept the original bearing ball and thrust pad, as they exhibited very little sign of wear.

Chakster, Does the occasional noise that you hear seem to emanate from inside the motor?  Is it periodic in nature, which is to ask does it come and go with each revolution of the platter and at a faster rate when you are in 45 rpm mode?  If so, you might be hearing the rotor rubbing on either the underside of the top cover of the motor or the stator below the rotor.  (I am relying on my memory of the anatomy of the motor, which may or may not be accurate, but it's the rotor doing the rubbing, I think.) There is a fine adjustment of that spacing that is achieved by use of very thin copper shims, at the factory.  Under the bearing well, which you can access without taking the motor apart, you will find a slotted head cap.  You might try very gently turning that threaded cap up or down, and see whether it affects the noise.  That cap can be used to fine tune the spacing between the rotor and the stationary parts that reside above and below it. Slow and gentle is the word of the day.
@lewm   


I also happened to hear the noise of the engine of the TT-101 grumbling when it is running.
But turning the plate by hand without power supply, everything was silent ... I think it is only a problem of calibration or a bad power supply of the engine due to some electronic component out of tolerance.