VPI Classic 3 IDLE drive

I have a Classic 3 that arrived last August or September, I think. It has a larger pulley like the one on youtube clip. There is about 3-4mm clearance between Pulley and platter.
I saw one of the earliest version of Classic 3 that has smaller pulley like Classic I. Classic 3 actually went through a few minor revision. The color of the plinth used to be metallic grey if you look back at old Music Direct ads and such. Now it is matted black. Platter now has grooves that was not there in early version. I would not be surprise if VPI decide to add rimdrive or idle drive or whatever but It is not out yet as far as I know.

Hi Stefano,
I used a syringe and used synthetic motor oil for a car (5W30). I applied a single drop on the shaft just below the pulley of my TNT. The multi-weight grade oil is inconsequential. It is just what I had available. Though I chose it for its superior film strength and light viscosity. I used the same for my VPI TNT bearing.

The lighter weight oil versus grease in the bearing well, greatly improved the performance of the TT. With the grease the sound was sluggish and smeared. The 5W30 allowed the TT to reproduce greater dynamics and openness to the music.

This makes sense since the grease places a greater drag on the motor which counters the inertia of the platter.

Just for clarification, VPI recommends Mobile One synthetic oil for "well type" bearing like the older TNT. For "inverted" bearing, VPI recommend super lube which is lithium based grease. For motor spindles, VPI recommends light grade oil. Mike has recommended rail oil for fishing reels which is very similar to sewing machine oil.

Stefanoo,

I'd recommend using a syringe like Redglobe described. The only problem might be getting one as in many states syringes and needles are not freely available to the public. I live in CA and it was impossible to get it. I eventually had one shipped from NY by a family member.

Next best thing is a dropper you can get at a local drug store such as Duane Reade or Rite Aid. Using a dropper without removing the pulley might need a bit of a clean-up job since you'll most likely leave some oil residue at the bottom of the pulley.

Steve from VPI told me to use two wooden spoons to remove the pulley, but once I loosened up the 3 screws, the pulley just came off easily. I'm not sure why yours would not. The balancing job on the screws is actually quite tricky as simply tightening the screws did not work at all. VPI actually uses specials tools to mechanically balance the tension. The least tension that did the trick (pulley was spinning) was what worked.

As far as the oil, Steve recommended 3-in-1, which also makes a type specifically for lubricating motors. Or you can go with the other types mentioned above.

This is what I did to lubricate the motor.

1.       Loosened all three allen screws on the 600 rpm pulley

2.       Loosened the one allen screw on the collar underneath the pulley

3.       Pulled the pulley off the shaft.

4.       Pulled the collar off the shaft.

5.       The collar has a smaller circumference at the bottom than at the top.  The bottom is supposed to be close to, but not touching the stationary part of the fixed motor assembly.  That space is what people refer to putting the syringe into for lubrication.  The 600 rpm pulley rests on top of the larger circumference of the collar.  There is an indentation on the bottom of the 600 rpm pulley that exactly fits the top of the collar

6.       So now you have everything off, clean it all, there was some dirt an grim in mine, clean the collar, around the fixed area of the motor assembly, clean the shaft.  I just wiped it off with a non-lint cloth.

7.       I used 0w 30 Castrol Synthetic motor oil, since I had it in the garage and a tooth pick.  Dipped the tooth pick in the motor oil and put several drops in the well area.  I also lubricate the stationary area close to where the collar fits into.

8.       Now for re-assembly.

9.       What is interesting is there is play in the shaft, you can move the shaft up and down.  If you pull the shaft up, it will stay there, however, as soon as you turn on the motor, the shaft immediately goes to the down position. 

10.   I tried a number of positions for the collar.  If the collar actually touches the stationary area, there are some issues.  First off, there is no way to get a syringe in there.  Second, if you put your ear up close, you will hear the collar rubbing against the stationary area.  When the collar is just barely not touching the stationary area, there is not sound, and also you can barely fit a syringe in there.  Therefore I concluded the correct position of the shaft at rest is the bottom, and the correct position of the collar is barely not touching the stationary portion of the motor assembly.

11.   So the motor shaft is at its resting point, you put the collar on, and position it so it is barely not touching the stationary area.  Turn the motor on and listen.  If you hear it hitting the stationary area, you have it too low.  Try again. Try and get it so it barely doesn’t touch.  Then tighten the allen screw.

12.   Then add the pulley, put a little oil on the shaft to make it easier to slide on the pulley.  Then tighten the three Allen screws evenly.