What type of wire for dedicated 20A AC lines?

@dancarlson10 , that is great that your QB-8 approach worked so well for you. I am really hoping that approach will work for me.  AC line conditions and other variables (like how many houses are serviced by a public transformer) will vary from house to house and system to system, so what works best for you may not work for me.  I’d say if I’m lucky I will arrive at your solution, since the QB8 will have the least coloration of the sound vs conditioners.

Nordost told me that you can’t even judge a particular conditioner’s effect or lack of effect on tonal balance as a generalization, because the effect on tonal balance, if any, is entirely system dependent.  So what works for one person may not work for another, given all the variables.

@nyev 

of course. My point was not at all about the qb8. Whatever conditioner you get will help. I was mainly referring to the dedicated line. Once you do that, your noise issues will settle down. You won’t care as much about the conditioner. Just have the electrician test the noise. We got .01, which is hopefully something close to what you can get. Also the outside world is just quieter after midnight. Its not just noise coming through the system. I am in a big city and the dedicated line helped a ton. I am sure it will for you also assuming you can run one to code. Just get a nice cable to run and Dont bend it. Have the electrician run it in a way that is clean. You will be fine. Cheers!

@dancarlson10 , really hoping I get that same result with my dedicated lines and I care less about the conditioners after it!  I’m so looking forward to it….  As I said above my dealer said “you won’t know what hit you”, and it’s not like he gets a sale out of it.  Well, he gets to sell me two Shunyata wall receptacles for $300 but he didn’t know that at the time (and still doesn’t…).  I was going to wait for the electrician to provide the quote and be good with the plan, but I think I’ll take a small risk and order them now so there is less of a delay!

+1 What andybflo said. I’m laughing with you.

As an electrician and electronics technician(industrial controls) since 1979 there seems to be limited knowledge regarding the relationship between voltage and current flow(amperage) I=V/R and powerP=V*R. In the situation of voltage drop, lets consider a home that is 5000sq ft that’s 100x50 ft. The longest wire pull might be 120ft. Take the nameplate current draw (for the 120V supply) on any 150W integrated amp and plug those numbers into any of the voltage drop calculators available online and voltage drop is a non factor. It is also true that devices designed to plug into general purpose outlets cannot exceed 15amps.  also correct regarding . If someone’s system sounds better to them with larger wire then by all means enjoy.

poppsg

No connected load on the branch circuit and you measured a 5V VD on the end of line.

Yes. The lame ass electrician stripped the wire when pulled. The plaster & painter didn’t cover the boxes and the wire barely made connection is some places.

About 45 years ago my mother-in-law’s house barely escaped a fire when the same sh!tttily done aluminum wiring nearly set the receptacle alight.

Where was your reference point used for the measurement? At the electrical panel?

Where else?

What type of volt meter did you use?

calibrated Fluke.

I’ve been fixing wiring for my HiFi for 50 years. There are all kinds of idiotic claims being made. Few know that plain old Romex beats fancy wiring in a conduit. See Microsoft PowerPoint - Indy AES 2012 Seminar w-Notes v1-0.ppt (wordpress.com) by Bill Whitlock. The paper addresses N O I S E while audiophools prattle on about current which is a non-issue in a properly wired installation. We ran over two kilowatts of amp power on a single 20A breaker. Never blew once. Adding additional loop area is just plain  D U M B !