Whest ps.30r

Paperw8

I can't really help you with the claims made by the manufacturer of a 70% improvement! This may be just marketing speak!. What I do know, having lived with the RDT and RDT 'SE' models is that the 'SE' is a substantial improvement sonically. The issue of acessing the DIP switches is only really pertinant if you swap cartridges alot. I don't. Apart from experimenting with load and gain for my Orpheus L when I first got the 'SE' home, I no longer have to access them. I have found that if you slide the phono stage forward from the rack and undo the two Allen bolts (way better than having to remove the unit entirely to undo NINE Allen bolts on the lid!!) to reveal the DIP switches, with the aide of a small mirror, you can make any adjustment you like easily without having to upend the unit. Whest advise and I can concur, that fingerprints/smudges can be easily removed by applying a small amount of WD40 to a clean lint-free cloth and running the cloth along the grain.

Steve

On the difference between the PS.30RDT and the PS.30RDT SE, my hypothesis is this (and it is just a guess): the PS.30RDT SE uses an opamp where the PS.30RDT SE uses a discrete bipolar module. So my guess is that the PS.30RDT uses negative feedback. Negative feedback designs are pretty controversial with some audiophiles; especially those who extoll the virtues of tube designs. I'm old enough to remember the transistion from tubes to transistors so in my mind I wonder: "why would anyone want to go back to that (tubes, that is)???"

My guess is that the discrete bipolar module is some kind of non-tube, non-negative feedback design.

As to the comment about preferring the access panel in the PS.30RDT SE, I see your point. I have my phono stage on the top shelf of a media cabinet so I can access the top lid of the phono stage without having to move it. I'm a bit of an inveterate tinker-er, so what I did was experiment with various gain and resistor combinations. I eventually closed the unit up, but eventually, I will reopen it and play around with additional resistor combinations just to see how they affect the sound. One thing that I like about the Whest phono stage is that the resistor values are moderately spaced so you can play with different combinations in parallel to "trim" the resistor value without having to go to the "user" resistor option. So, in my situation, top lid access works better because once I remove the lid, I can rifle through different combinations of switch settings.

I'm aware that you can use WD40 oil to clean the case but if you touch the case later, you'll get new smudges. I've taken to wearing latex gloves or using a towel to keep having oil from my fingers from staining the case.

Good theory and probably correct. James does state on his literature on the PS.30 RDT 'SE' that the sound is more 'valve-like'.

On the subject of doubling up resistor settigs to use in parallel. I recall reading this in The Stereo Times online review of the PS.30 RDT and discussed it with Whest. James thought it was a bad idea as he explained that it would simply add extra noise to the system. True or false, I don't know. I am not technically qualified to comment. In any event, I heeded James advice and only stick to the set resistor options.

I like your suggestion about using latex gloves!

I think that the James' statement is true; any time you go through a switch, *some* amount of noise is likely to be introduced. My suspicion is that the actual amount of noise is rather small. As I recall reading in your blog thread, someone recommended that you should have your resistor selection "hard wired". This would probably be your lowest noise option. However, the sound of your phono stage is influenced by the resistance load selection, so I would say that the greater concern is to select the resistive load value that sounds the best to you. In general, if the resistive load value is too high, the sound can be somewhat bright and exaggerated but if the resistive load value is too low, the sound can be a bit dull. In my case, I am using a Lyra Delos cartridge for which the recommended resistor range is 390 ohms (preferred) to 200 ohms. So by putting the 470 ohm and 1.6k ohm resistors in parallel, I get about 363 ohms.

I now own a PS.30RDT SE and went from the 30RDT. The difference in audio in quite staggering. Why..I am not too sure and to be honest don't really care. The PS.30RDT outperformed the PH7 when I was looking around for a new stage and the 30RDT SE kills the 30RDT DEAD!!! That is not to say the 30RDT is poor in any way...it's a clear winner for the price. The 30RDT SE just is in another territory and was above anything that was in my price range and above.

WD40 works. It leaves no smudges. I've used this 'trick' for years before James told me. A machine shop I used to do business with told me WD40 applied to an anodised surface takes all the finger prints off and leaves it looking really clean. I've used this technique on all my anodised front panels for at least 10 years now.

The parallel resistor one is interesting. I think James talks about noise in a 'micro' view point. Whether you can actually hear it ???, but as an engineer he is aware that paralleling resistors HAS TO add noise. I certainly cannot detect any increase but I suppose as the manufacturer he is probably just covering his ass!