A sub with L & R RCA inputs???

LFE stands for 'Low Frequency Effects' (maybe you didn't know that, a lot of people don't) but the key word is EFFECTS. The single LFE signal has been 'processed' (as set by YOU) at the receiver/processor. IOW, with the LFE signal, the L and R channels have already been combined, the low pass frequency has been established, and often other parameters have/can be set (again, by you, from the menu on your A/V processor) depending on the features available on your processor. When you are playing 5.1 or 7.1 surround, the 'point one' subwoofer signal is "good to go" -- meaning that none of the controls on the sub itself are operable (except level) when using the LFE input. If you "process" everything you listen to (including two channel material) into surround sound, then you should only be using the LFE input regardless of the brand/model of sub.

The L and R single ended inputs are completely separate (and different) animals from the LFE input. First of all, ALL the controls on the back of the sub are operable when using the L+R inputs: phase, frequency crossover point and slopes, volume, high pass points (if you are sending the signal on to your main speakers) certain room-correction circuitry if your sub has room correction features (such as a microphone to set them up.) The subwoofer's amplifier only 'samples' the low frequency content of the L+R signals anyway (meaning, the actual L+R signals coming from your preamp/processor dont really 'drive' the subwoofer amp directly, whereas the LFE signal DOES actually drive the subwoofer amp.) So by keeping the L+R signals (coming from your preamp/processor) separate, you don't run the risk of compromising the output circuits of the preamp/processor by using a 'Y' connector. You can not (and should not) have signal going into BOTH the L+R inputs and the LFE input at the same time UNLESS there is a way at the sub or at the processor to turn one of them off as applicable.

All that said, the Woodmere II's already go down to 25Hz (at least according to the manufacturer ;~) so in your modest size room, with all those drivers going already, I can't imagine what you think you'll gain by adding a subwoofer?

Went to the Rel site and opened a manual at random and it has left and right line level inputs. I think most powered subs have L&R inputs
Alan

I used to own a Von Schweikert sub that had left and right RCA inputs.
The VRS1 was what it was called, Great sub but alas I when back to 2 Channel and a pair of Large full range floorstanding speakers that made the sub redundant.

These are great responses..Many thanks Nsgarch..I have since moved and have not updated my pictures and have a totally different arrangement. The Woodmere's are now in a room with more breathing room and have fully opened up. But since the Coda Csi hd this capability I thought it wouldn't hurt to put this out for some opinions. The bass is even deeper in the new enviroment and I couldn't be happier (I think)...Since the Coda has been a blessing to the Woodmere's I wonder what the Sub would add if anything.

Shakedown, the "subwoofer" main outputs on the back of your Coda are exact duplicates of the "preamp" main outputs. Just different labels. In theory, the Woodmeres should give you all the low frequency bass you need. In pactice though, as things are now, it won't be well controlled low bass (good damping), unless you get the amp(s) next to the speaker(s). If you keep the Coda near your listening chair, you'll be running rather long speaker cables, which ruin good bass transient response. If you put the Coda between the speakers, that's a little bit better solution for good bass control, but incovenient from a user standpoint.

All this is a good argument for separate components over integrateds, which IMO are best reserved for bedroom systems. In your situation, you'd get a lot better performance out of your main speakers by using a pair of monoblock amps next to the speakers, and preamp and sources next to your listening position. A preamp preferably with balanced outputs to drive longer cables to the monoblock amps (although with well designed/shielded single-ended cables, you can go up to 40 ft with no problem.) As things are now, adding a subwoofer won't do anything to improve the (somewhat less than optimum) performance of your Tylers. So I'd work toward improving the relationship between your main speakers and the amp(s) that drive them.
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