... abit confused: how does a power cord affect the presentation of sound...


Hello to all...

I was shifting around components in my system, trying to squeeze out better controlled bass, more definition within the soundstage, and better define the "voice/midrange" presentation...

I presently have a tube preamp (hardwired with a wall wart) into an HT Receiver; source is a Marantz SA-8001 CD Player

Swapped out a Yamaha HTR -5550 (hardwired) for a Parasound HCA-750A (which needs a power cord).

CD Player is powered with a PS Audio Statement SC power cord, so I went in my closet and pulled out another PS AUDIO Statement SC power cord, hooked it up and expect to give it at least 5 days continuous re-break-in before serious listening.

Took a minute to lookup reviews about this power cord - and I read some rather confusing reviews: some luved 'um, some liked 'um, but some thought them " ...slow... " (?), and giving a veiled presentation...

I'm gonna listen and decide myself - but I'm abit confused: how does a power cord affect the presentation of sound - I know that interconnects and speaker cables would/could/Do affect sound presentation - but how could a power cord?

Explanation/thoughts please...
insearchofprat

A lot of what is said is mostly true about not needing a 6k power cord with an exception of a couple of things. This is my take from competing in Car Audio Competition and from speaking to my best friend who works for Entergy as an engineer. The longer the cable run, the better the gauge needs to be. The only issue related to that is that our power lines every 50' or 100' utilize amplifiers to boost the power. This is why we have a major in-flux of power and AC noise. Hence why people utilize some type of power conditioners. Unfortunately when you use a longer standard cable with your amplifiers, you're asking the power supply in the amplifier to work harder and create more heat which is typically the enemy of sound quality. Shorter cable from the wall is better to reduce that. I'm my Roush Mustang, I use 2 gauge for my power cable to my fuse block  to 4 gauge to my amplifier and for the ground, I use two gauge but only a foot of cable for my McIntosh car audio sound system. In a perfect world a lot of what he said makes sense but unfortunately we don't live in a perfect world. I'd rather support the system in my home VS having to send them off to a repair shop due to power loss which hurts the power supply. You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get a good power cord to help protect your system. It all depends on the length you will need. In another words, how fare your amplifier is from the socket. Most standard power cords are 6 feet long.


^But in your home you probably have 15’ to 40’ of 14 gauge from your electrical box to your outlet. 2’ of 2 gauge from the wall to your amp is doesn’t make up for that 14 ga run.  Its ridiculous actually.
The speaker causes the amplifier to work harder not the minimum resistance of a cable as long as it's rated for the job. Anything 12 awg or less should be fine up to 25 ft. Cars are DC which is why they typically use very large guages of wire. 
I have no idea who your friend is but where I live I don’t see line amplifiers on transmission lines every 50ft,  poles are more than 50 ft apart. That would be an amplifer on every pole??
To add to discussion on power cables: no comments on audio quality - it is in the "ear of beholder," but just to point out how the cables heat up.  We burn in 100% of our AC EMI filters and we take FLIR images in near-infrared spectrum - if you are interested, here are couple of them that I put on our web site:  https://www.onfilter.com/cable-temperature  They get pretty toasty.  Whether this heating affects audio quality is a subject to a separate discussion.  The objective notes are that whenever you see higher-than-desirable temperature, there is an insertion resistance affecting output impedance of power line and, perhaps, some fluctuation of supply voltage with the load current on the receptacle.  The cables we use are industrial grade; if you are using thinner cables and/or consumer-grade plugs/outlets, the thermal effect is likely to be much higher.

If you are interested to repeat these experiments, we use FLIR'  One Pro (https://www.flir.com/products/flir-one-pro-lt?model=435-0013-03) - no endorsements, this is just what we use.  Fluke also offers similar products.