Active Linn Katans

Hi Christian,

I too have Linn Katans, although at this point just a Classik. My future plans are to upgrade via LK-85s, and then go active, and then look at the source. That may be a little bit backwards, I'm not sure.

Some Qs: how far out into the room are the Katans? Did you ever experiment with the tone controls (I know that might get me some flack on that one...).

My Katans are wall mounted, which was a practicle solution due to a small apartment + baby. The bass was immediatly 'muddy', generally horrible. Experimenting with the bass tone control made the difference.

I think about the Sizmik...possibly even the custom one, installed into the wall.

Gavin.

Gavin,

My Katans are standing on a shelf (I know this is NOT a good thing but that part is out of my control), so I have them quite close to the wall, 15 cm:s. Since the space for repositioning is very limitied I think getting the Kolektor will allow me to adjust the tone to better fit my listening room (which is very bright).

The Majik lacks these tone controls so this is yet untested.

What has happened though is I received a response from Linn Helpline where they told me that I had made an error with the connections. I had daisychained the Majik through the first LK-85, which was a big error. The Majik automatically senses the active cards and reroutes the signal to the poweramp, even though the external links are removed. I was feeding the poweramp with two signals.. both the bass from the internal active cards AND the daisy chained signal (which is the original source signal). No wonder thing were mixed up!!

The Katans are singing more and more for every day. I still have some minor repositioning to do, and am waiting for the Kolektor with big expectiations.

I think the Sizmik is a perfect match for the Katans. I have listened to the Katans with a CD12, a 5103 and a 2250, combined with a Sizmik. The sound was (for me) pure magic. In my opinion the Katans are underestimated, they just need a very good source because they are very demanding. My Genki is looking weaker for every day...

Christian and Gavin,

I understand that speaker positioning is sometimes dictated by factors beyond our control. You both need to experiment with methods to overcome the negatives of having the speakers too close to the wall. Tone controls, although perhaps needed in THIS case, are rarely beneficial. You need to place absorption panels behind your speakers. I realize that you will probably be limited in the size of the panels but urge you to do as much as you can. You need to minimize the coupling effect and your bass will improve a great deal. If my memory serves me correctly this early in the morning Westlake offers an accessory that looks like a foam surround that is flush with the face of the speaker. Take a look and try some home brewed remedy that is similar. I do think that "if" you can place Sonex (or similar) panels on the wall behind the speakers the results will make you happy.

The Sonex comes in 2 x 2 foot panels. For description sake, let's assume the speakers are the same size. You would need 9 panels per speaker making the absorption area 6 x 6 feet with each speaker directly in the middle. There are less expensive home brewed designs that are searchable on net.

Ideally you both need really good speaker stands a couple of feet into the room, minimum. The panels would mimic this to a certain degree.

Good luck,
Patrick

Hi,

Christian: Don't the Aktiv treble cards have an adjustment dail? I have read that it is accessible through the back of the amp. Maybe that would help the brightness?

Partrick: Yes, about positioning...not only the bass response, but also the soundstage. It really seems to take some depth away. I can't tell you how much this bothered me (I had the speakers on makeshift stands when I first got them, and things got smaller when they were wall mounted, as far as depth). It still does bother me...but it is a real battle between reality and ultimate performance.

I am going to investigate absorption panels, thanks for the idea. Anything that would help, while within my constraints, would be nice!

Gavin.

Guys,

My Aktiv cards (treble) have eight DIP switches for "room correction". Each switch is worth 0.5 db. I'm working from memory here but I believe four of the switches in the "on" position is the factory preset. So, assuming that is flat response, then you can boost or reduce the highs by a total of 2 db + or -. I hope this helps. Also, there was a post recently about anyone subscribing to the DELE or LEDE room treatments. Do a search of the Audiogon archives. I have a description there of a great room with Linn speakers tight against the wall. This Dead End/Live End application, while not preferred, will be your best bet, IMHO.

If you are willing to invest some money, in the neighborhood of $100-200, to build great absorptive panels then email me directly for a description. I do advise doing something makeshift in advance of the investment. Even cutting a piece of 2" thick foam rubber and temporarily placing it behind your speakers will let you tell if this is the way to go. Be warned however, that I wouldn't use this material permanently because of the fire hazard. Ultimately you need to use rigid fiberglass inside a frame of some sort with a fabric (burlap is best) covering. If you can find a material like the sock fabric the Linn speakers use this would be a very good alternative. It can be very attractive if you are a little handy and willing to give DIY a try.